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New Thiokol Spryte
- Thread starter snow
- Start date
Re: New Thiokol Spryte and a long list of things to repairs
Today I tried to figure out the heater system. Obviously it used to be nest for mice and squirrels. I cleaned that up but I can't get to the heater / fan for the defroster. There is no access from the inside and none from the outside.
From looking at previous posts it seems that the access is from outside, above the radiator cap. Mine is riveted. If it is the only option, then I will drill the rivets.
Today I tried to figure out the heater system. Obviously it used to be nest for mice and squirrels. I cleaned that up but I can't get to the heater / fan for the defroster. There is no access from the inside and none from the outside.
From looking at previous posts it seems that the access is from outside, above the radiator cap. Mine is riveted. If it is the only option, then I will drill the rivets.
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Can you post a few pictures of your entire machine so we can see what type of Spyte you have. I cannot tell if you have a 601 or 1200. Also, do you know the year?
To get the heater out my 1200, I had to remove the forward most section of the doghouse cover from the inside as some of the heater sits under the front nose. The cover is riveted to some support members. The cover, support brackets, and heater come out as one unit and did not require removing any rivets. During manufacturing, the aft most bracket of this assembly was tack welded to the main structure. I used a Drummel to cut the tack welds. You will need to remove the choke cable and hoses, and all the bolts along the edge of the cover. There are bolts between the heater and front end that are a tad tricky to remove. You can see the holes in the cover in the bottom pic. Finally, lift the aft end of the assembly up slightly and pull everything back.
With this out of the machine you can unbolt the blower from the cover and work on it. Keep an eye on how the foam is packed in as you take things apart.
To get the heater out my 1200, I had to remove the forward most section of the doghouse cover from the inside as some of the heater sits under the front nose. The cover is riveted to some support members. The cover, support brackets, and heater come out as one unit and did not require removing any rivets. During manufacturing, the aft most bracket of this assembly was tack welded to the main structure. I used a Drummel to cut the tack welds. You will need to remove the choke cable and hoses, and all the bolts along the edge of the cover. There are bolts between the heater and front end that are a tad tricky to remove. You can see the holes in the cover in the bottom pic. Finally, lift the aft end of the assembly up slightly and pull everything back.
With this out of the machine you can unbolt the blower from the cover and work on it. Keep an eye on how the foam is packed in as you take things apart.
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Thank you Zspryte for your help.
I have a 1201, not sure of the year, around 76-77
Today I managed to remove the heater. The wires were cut at the electrical motor outlet. I had to cut the rivets in the front, remove bolts. A good day of work. This Spryte was modified and that explains why it was so difficult. I have rebuilt the motors and fan and I need to find a radiator shop to clean the heather and check for leaks. I was also looking for a good spot to plug in a water temperature gauge. Now it will be easier.
I have posted some photos (hum, there is an admin problem with the forum servers). I will have to wait.
Foam? I did not see any, just some old oily and soaked pieces on the top of the main radiator.
The engine, transmission and tracks seem OK. So far I fixed the fuel gauge, the lights, and several shorts through the machine.
I have a lot of work to do: corrosion issues, leaks.
Your Spryte looks gorgeous!
I have a 1201, not sure of the year, around 76-77
Today I managed to remove the heater. The wires were cut at the electrical motor outlet. I had to cut the rivets in the front, remove bolts. A good day of work. This Spryte was modified and that explains why it was so difficult. I have rebuilt the motors and fan and I need to find a radiator shop to clean the heather and check for leaks. I was also looking for a good spot to plug in a water temperature gauge. Now it will be easier.
I have posted some photos (hum, there is an admin problem with the forum servers). I will have to wait.
Foam? I did not see any, just some old oily and soaked pieces on the top of the main radiator.
The engine, transmission and tracks seem OK. So far I fixed the fuel gauge, the lights, and several shorts through the machine.
I have a lot of work to do: corrosion issues, leaks.
Your Spryte looks gorgeous!
PJL
Well-known member
@#$!&**! mice. They did the same to the heater box in my 88 LMC 1200. The book says split the cab to gain room to slide the heater core out. I weaseled it out without doing that. I used several bottles of some enzyme designed to kill urine odors. It worked.
The heater started leaking not long ago so I get to do it again. But no mice!
The heater started leaking not long ago so I get to do it again. But no mice!
Cleaned the mice/squirrels damage. I don't want to blame them too quickly for the cut wires.
Anyway, I managed to drill the rivets, cut the screws and then dismantled the heater box. Trip to the radiator shop to clean and test. I rebuilt the electric motors, and will be installing a water temperature gauge soon.
So much work, so little results...
Anyway, I managed to drill the rivets, cut the screws and then dismantled the heater box. Trip to the radiator shop to clean and test. I rebuilt the electric motors, and will be installing a water temperature gauge soon.
So much work, so little results...
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wannagoflying
Member
Welcome aboard Snow. By chance did you see if Kier had any boggie axles.
Thanks John
Thanks John
Field mice. Here's what they did to my Imp one summer:
I spent a couple hundred bucks having an upholsterer rebuild the seat and then found out afterwards that Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_8264_8264) sells a close cousin for $100.
Ron
I spent a couple hundred bucks having an upholsterer rebuild the seat and then found out afterwards that Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_8264_8264) sells a close cousin for $100.
Ron
I am dealing with spaghettis here!
I have little experience with hydraulics and I am surrounded by hoses. The whole set up is original.
There is the blade in front with the T handle, few leaks and I can deal with that.
Then to the left of the T handle I have other controls with four hoses leading all the way to the back (maybe it was the drag or an hydraulic winch).
Then there two more hoses coming from the hydraulic tank into the back differential.
As I tried to slowly and carefully check on the differential oil, the oil was black and coming out, so I quickly put the cap back.
After ready the posts I realize that there is no specific differential oil, the oil comes from the main big hydraulic tank. Is that common, do you have that on yours? It means you have the drain the whole set up to change the oil in the differential? Differential + tank must be at least 20-25 gal. Then you don't completely change the oil, because when your are done the new oil is mixed up with the old one in the hoses?
What do you think?
I have little experience with hydraulics and I am surrounded by hoses. The whole set up is original.
There is the blade in front with the T handle, few leaks and I can deal with that.
Then to the left of the T handle I have other controls with four hoses leading all the way to the back (maybe it was the drag or an hydraulic winch).
Then there two more hoses coming from the hydraulic tank into the back differential.
As I tried to slowly and carefully check on the differential oil, the oil was black and coming out, so I quickly put the cap back.
After ready the posts I realize that there is no specific differential oil, the oil comes from the main big hydraulic tank. Is that common, do you have that on yours? It means you have the drain the whole set up to change the oil in the differential? Differential + tank must be at least 20-25 gal. Then you don't completely change the oil, because when your are done the new oil is mixed up with the old one in the hoses?
What do you think?
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Snowcat Pat
Active member
What I see is the heat exchanger (copper coils) in the diff lid. This setup has the diff and aux hydraulic oils separate. Aux oil cooling the diff oil somewhat.
There would be hoses connected to the bottom-front of the diff case if there is diff oil circulating, otherwise they are plugged.
-Pat
There would be hoses connected to the bottom-front of the diff case if there is diff oil circulating, otherwise they are plugged.
-Pat
Thank you Snowcat Pat,
That makes totally sense. I had not thought about that!!!
There are two plugs at the bottom. I have been looking for the spot of the differential temperature gauge. It had been disconnected at the electrical panel. Is it possible that the bottom one on the driver's side would be that spot to re-install a temp gauge?
JB
That makes totally sense. I had not thought about that!!!
There are two plugs at the bottom. I have been looking for the spot of the differential temperature gauge. It had been disconnected at the electrical panel. Is it possible that the bottom one on the driver's side would be that spot to re-install a temp gauge?
JB
Snowcat Pat
Active member
I've seen the temp sender there, appeared to be factory installed, in the socket hex of the plug. Hard to engage the hex(s) to remove/install.
I prefer using the fill level plug on the back of the case. More accurate readings I think.
Either way just having a working diff temp gauge is essential.
-Pat
I prefer using the fill level plug on the back of the case. More accurate readings I think.
Either way just having a working diff temp gauge is essential.
-Pat
Paint questions on Thiokol Spryte
Hello,
I have seen posts related to paint strippers, primer, and paint on aluminum, but after searching every post I can't find anything.
What do you all think about Methylene chloride? Any other options?
I don't have access to a paint booth and plan to do the work outside (we are in the forest, 7,200 ft altitude).
The front cabin is aluminum (I will have to change several panels), but the back is steel welded onto the frame. So I have to strip, prep, and paint two different metals.
Also the joint between the front (aluminum) and the back (steel) is leaking. I was thinking about covering the whole thing with insulation (glue foam) and cover the whole thing with two panels (dimensions are 4' x 11'.
Would you recommend aluminum or steel?
Thank you for your help!
Hello,
I have seen posts related to paint strippers, primer, and paint on aluminum, but after searching every post I can't find anything.
What do you all think about Methylene chloride? Any other options?
I don't have access to a paint booth and plan to do the work outside (we are in the forest, 7,200 ft altitude).
The front cabin is aluminum (I will have to change several panels), but the back is steel welded onto the frame. So I have to strip, prep, and paint two different metals.
Also the joint between the front (aluminum) and the back (steel) is leaking. I was thinking about covering the whole thing with insulation (glue foam) and cover the whole thing with two panels (dimensions are 4' x 11'.
Would you recommend aluminum or steel?
Thank you for your help!
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Hi Snowcat Pat,
I have found my self in the middle of other problems. Transmission is leaking and has to be removed and we had another 5" last night. That winter does not seem to go away.
When the snow starts melting I will drain that oil from the differential.
You had said that you prefer using the fill level plug on the back of the case.
How do you do that? If this is the fill plug that would mean that the sender is above the oil level? Do you drill and tap that bolt to install a temp sender? Is it subject to damage.
Thanks for your help.
JB
