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Need some track/carb advice

utahwilson

utahwilson

New member
I finally got my cat back from peterson equipment. Looks great. However, on driving around the yard the tracks slap the underside of the fenders. Is there a guide for how tight the tracks should be?

Also, can anyone recommend a duel port carb with choke. I have a weber after market carb with no choke and am having a heck of a time starting the cat with no choke.

thanks

-K
 
Little wheel mods...3" of track deflection between the drive gear and the 2nd boggie. Your first boggie wheel should press down and deflect that front track line by 3" put another way. I use a piece of aluminum Couchloafer gave me layed on the top of the track from the drive gear back to the ground. The middle or first boggie deflects the track three inches from the gear to where the track meets the ground. I hope this helps.

Regards, Kirk
 
One of my tracks is differnt and setting it up that way doesn't work. I'm not sure if it's streched or the differnt kind of belt. It shows two ways to check the adjustment in our manuals. The way I do is lay a straight edge on top of the tracks from the drive gear to center top tire. a long 2x4 will work. the track should be 3" sag below your first window. when you get in snowyou'll notice they tighten up some. Driving off with your straight edge on the track usually only happens one time.
 
Level is too short, but I am hoping that your suggestion is to lay a 2x4 from the sprocket to the top wheel and measure the drop. In which drop should be 3". Right side of snowcat doesn't hit the fender as much as left and left is definitely higher then right. Looking at the adjustment it appears there is a nut in the back that pushes the back wheel in/out. Any idea as to what size the nut is?
Thanks
 

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with my big wheel conversion i run mine a little tighter about 1 inch. as for carbs do you have a single port or dual port motor. it makes a diffference car craft .com is where i hve been getting my parts talk to Ron pic 31's cost me about 120 bucks new
 
dds said:
with my big wheel conversion i run mine a little tighter about 1 inch. as for carbs do you have a single port or dual port motor. it makes a diffference car craft .com is where i hve been getting my parts talk to Ron pic 31's cost me about 120 bucks new
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Having my wife standout side and spray starting fluid into the carb seems to be working pretty good. :brows: Not sure how she feels about it. Its a dual port motor. I will check out craft.com. I need to figure out the track thing though. Bugs the heck out of me when the track slaps up against the front fender. Taking snowcat out on Friday with nephews. I will play around with the adjustment then. thanks for the advice
 
Measure the 3" drop on the inside of the track line, not above it. Straight edge layed fro the bottom of the drive sprocket to the bottom of the 2nd bogie tire. Max drop to the first bogie is 3" below the straigt edge. The first bogie wheel sets the tension, as the top of the track is tight when running. The slack side is the bottom on the ground.

Regards, Kirk
 
300 H and H said:
Measure the 3" drop on the inside of the track line, not above it. Straight edge layed fro the bottom of the drive sprocket to the bottom of the 2nd bogie tire. Max drop to the first bogie is 3" below the straigt edge. The first bogie wheel sets the tension, as the top of the track is tight when running. The slack side is the bottom on the ground.

Regards, Kirk
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Kirk, JimVT and DDS. I am lost at this point. In the picture I have Sprocket, bogie one (middle) bogie two (left) Line from bottom bogie two to bottom sprocket. bogie one bottom should only be 3" below this line?

Thanks for any and all help:biggrin:
 

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mine with the big wheeel conversion i have to mesure across the top but with yours you will have to mesure from at the bottom of the track where it touches the ground and the bottom of the drive sproket and you are looking for about 3 inches drop at the boggie.
 
utahwilson said:
Kirk, JimVT and DDS. I am lost at this point. In the picture I have Sprocket, bogie one (middle) bogie two (left) Line from bottom bogie two to bottom sprocket. bogie one bottom should only be 3" below this line?

Thanks for any and all help:biggrin:
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Yes the yellow line is correct. Maybe just a bit above, as the line should intersect just at the point the track touches the sprocket and the 2nd bogie tire reaches the ground. (your a little behind that point with your line, use the wheel guide in front of the 2nd bogie to draw the line to it) Lay your board cut to length inside on the track along the line. Measure down to the track at the first bogie for your 3"... That said you are on the right track for sure. On my ST there is nearly 3" of air under the first bogie tire when the track is tight....Remember the chain drives under the hood need to be adjusted first, as this adjustment affects the track tension too.

Have you got a book? Are you greasing all the zerks at the right times?

Regards, Kirk
 
Snowcat has been at PetersonEquipment in Logan for 6 months. They went through the entire under carriage. However, it appears they didn't adjust the tracks. I guess I need to track down a book. Thanks for your help.
 
Utah,

Some where on this forum is a reprintable copy of the operaters manual with maintanance info, but it will take a better man than I to find the link to the thread...

Some greasing takes place at 10 hour intervles and some at 50 hours. The Variator will live long if well cared for. Very costly if not....as I am sure your aware by now... Not to mention just finding the parts.

Regards, Kirk
 
Sweetness, Found the manual online. I was close. Includes a perfect picture on what you were trying to explain to me. Thanks for the information.
 
Promise some pictures of your adventures will ya??

I need snow here for me to run mine...

Have a Snow Trac fun day!!

Kirk
 
Jim's way looks like it is for a Snow Master Utah, maybe this is correct for your machine. Jim is that for a 4 band or 5 band track?? Judging from the snow shields over the rear bogies, I would bet a 5 band...

Regards, Kirk
 
utahwilson said:
Also, can anyone recommend a duel port carb with choke. I have a weber after market carb with no choke and am having a heck of a time starting the cat with no choke.

thanks

-K
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Since the old air-cooled VW's came from the factory with two different bolt patterns, and the aftermarket sold many 'oem-style 1-barrel replacements' for the time-tested solex (some better than others) Weber being one. The aftermarket also sold manifolds to adapt many other Weber carbs to the air-cooled VW. Not knowing what manifold you have, I would look up my friend Art Thraen at ACE (Air Cooled Engineering) in Salt Lake City, send him a picture of what you've got, or bring yours into the shop. I highly recommend Art, he's smart and knowledgeable, a straight shooter, and local to you. If you talk to him, tell him Tom Simon 'says Hi'

Art Thraen - ace@aircooledengineering.com
360 W 6100 S Murray, UT 84107

(801) 747-3341
 
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