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Muskeg diff removal

S

samwe

Member
To remove the diff it looks like the shafts from the diff to the final drive reduction have to come out.

In order to do that, do we have to pull the tracks and drive sprocket and then remove the final drive reduction assembly? I am hoping I am missing something, otherwise I have a lot of work to do.


Also, is there an alternate source for the bearing cap adjusting tool?
 
samwe said:
To remove the diff it looks like the shafts from the diff to the final drive reduction have to come out.

In order to do that, do we have to pull the tracks and drive sprocket and then remove the final drive reduction assembly? I am hoping I am missing something, otherwise I have a lot of work to do.


Also, is there an alternate source for the bearing cap adjusting tool?
Click to expand...



If you have the final drives, there is a cover on them six bolts you remove that and behind that gives you access to pull the short axle into the differential.

The factory had a stamped out plate with a hex that fit either large or small hex
You could easily have one cut out with a plasma cutter or even a torch 1/8" sheet
 
Thanks! We bought gears from you last year and are just now getting to this. If all goes well I won't find out I need to buy more parts from you!

Actually, the steering and all that was working well, so I think we are just swapping gears and inspecting bearings.
 
samwe said:
How about the tab locks for the bolts holding the brake drums on, are these specialty parts?
Click to expand...
what is wrong with yours i'm at the same point, will be tearing it down the one I'm working on clicks real bad in a turn to the right. I'm working on an s carrier with a 318, been cursing the engineer since I started on it. pull the radiator, lift the front of the engine, remove the cover and steering linkage, to find out that the front engine mount, and crank pulley has to come off to get enough clearance to pull the chunk out. god help me if that thing ever spits a u joint at the differential.
one must remember seems like every thing is rusted up on those older machines
 
Snowtrac Nome said:
what is wrong with yours i'm at the same point, will be tearing it down the one I'm working on clicks real bad in a turn to the right. I'm working on an s carrier with a 318, been cursing the engineer since I started on it. pull the radiator, lift the front of the engine, remove the cover and steering linkage, to find out that the front engine mount, and crank pulley has to come off to get enough clearance to pull the chunk out. god help me if that thing ever spits a u joint at the differential.
one must remember seems like every thing is rusted up on those older machines
Click to expand...

When it come time for a u joint make a access plate in the tub bottom
 
Snowtrac Nome said:
what is wrong with yours...
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Our was a diesel, so it has higher gears. We got a ring and pinion from MNOutdoors a while back and are swapping that in. We are hoping that with 50% lower ration, we may use more of the gears in our trans!

We never get past 2nd and I think the lower gears would have us in 3rd at the same speed.
 
MNoutdoors said:
We have always bought them from the factory. If your carefull you can reuse them
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I learned that those just hold the gear to the brake drums, and I did not need to separate those.

As we finished torquing down the ring gear there were two bolts that started to strip, so I will get those replaced and see if we how the threads in the ring are.

Then I just need to get new carrier and pinion bearings so I can have a shop press them on for me.

The good news is everything we have looked at in the diff looks pretty good. brake pads are probably 3/8" thick. I am not sure what new is though.
 
I found my inner gears missing some teeth on the ring gear side and a few chipped spider gears once Bian ts back with me I intend to get them ordered up a already have the inner side gears. like you I found no need to separate the bolts until it was too late
 
samwe said:
I learned that those just hold the gear to the brake drums, and I did not need to separate those.

As we finished torquing down the ring gear there were two bolts that started to strip, so I will get those replaced and see if we how the threads in the ring are.

Then I just need to get new carrier and pinion bearings so I can have a shop press them on for me.

The good news is everything we have looked at in the diff looks pretty good. brake pads are probably 3/8" thick. I am not sure what new is though.
Click to expand...

To get the carrier bearings on get yourself a old electric cooker fill with clean oil heat it up to 350 degrees with the bearing in the oil grab the bearing with a channel locks it will drop on the carrier ends

Steering bands are only normally 1/4" thick
 
Can we do the pinion bearings by freezing the races then pressing them into the housing? Are pinion shims something we are likely to find local? Or do you sell an assortment pack of them?


How about the alignment tool? That looks a little harder to make without a lathe... It seems like when we bolt the housing back in that determines the alignment of everything?

I am thinking I need to get in gear. Hunting season will be here before we know it.
 
samwe said:
Can we do the pinion bearings by freezing the races then pressing them into the housing? Are pinion shims something we are likely to find local? Or do you sell an assortment pack of them?


How about the alignment tool? That looks a little harder to make without a lathe... It seems like when we bolt the housing back in that determines the alignment of everything?

I am thinking I need to get in gear. Hunting season will be here before we know it.
Click to expand...

Freezing the races will help, shims should be available locally. But the ones you took out should be correct

Not sure what alignment tool your referring to just make sure the top flanges are as flush to one another as possible remember to weld again and grind flush
Most of the time we don't unbolt we do everything in the machine it's more bending to get in the tub though. By the time you get all those perimeter bolts in
I would be surprised you would have any give at all maybe a couple of thousands of a inch.

Use about .009 backlash in the ring and pinion after everything is tight including the stiffener bolts it sometimes takes several try's because things move in the final tightening.

Good luck hunting!
 
Wouldn't we need new shims of we have new ring and pinion?

Anyways, the shop found a kit that has the big and little pinion shims in it. It is for a Dana 80, but the sizes match.
We have all our bearings now too. Those cost more than I expected, but we got Timken and not a no name from China made out of pot metal.
 
samwe said:
Wouldn't we need new shims of we have new ring and pinion?

Anyways, the shop found a kit that has the big and little pinion shims in it. It is for a Dana 80, but the sizes match.
We have all our bearings now too. Those cost more than I expected, but we got Timken and not a no name from China made out of pot metal.
Click to expand...

If you had your old shims you would have most likely got within several thousands of a inch and in these differentials that's as close as needed the one that's more important as the left right adjustment for backlash about .009 is what we use.
 
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