My question is what are the important items to loook at to make sure im just not buying a money pit. IE im assuming drive train/tracks and wheels but what specificaly should I look at.
For a machine of this age, just assume it is, in fact a money pit. If that turns out not to be the case, then you will be pleasantly surprised. Otherwise, you will be prepared.
In no particular order:
Check the intake and exhaust manifolds for cracks, missing chunks, etc. These are hard to come by, often difficult to remove, and somewhat labor intensive to repair. Leaks in the exhaust will gas you out of the cab, and leaks in the intake will have you running on fewer cylinders.
Pull the stick on the final drive. If the fluid level is significantly overfull, the differential may be full of water. Not certain death, but not a good start.
Are all gauges functional, and do they read correctly?
Is the radiator in good order?
Is the tub full of goo, or does it appear dry? This gives some idea of the condition of the various seals on the hydraulic pump, front and rear mains, and the oil pan.
Will it shift smoothly through all gears, can you find neutral easily, and do you hear any strange noises in any one (or all) gears?
Drive forward and backward while turning in both directions. Granted, performance on snow is much different than on grass/dirt, but are there any odd snapping, grinding sounds while turning, or is it all smooth sailing.
Is the lever travel equal in both directions, with equal effect?
Incorrect and/or contaminated fluid will effect turning, as will worn out brake linings.
(Bear in mind also, that there is some technique involved in effective turning).
Any chunks missing from either drive gear?
Check the tracks for missing bolts, guides, cracked cleats.
Some cracking, checking and edgewise fraying of the track belting can be considered somewhat normal. The further you venture from home, the more you need to care about the condition of the belts. Make sure the rubber/fabric laminations are not separating.
Are the cleats evenly worn from one side to the other?
Does it cold start easily and settle in to a smooth idle quickly, or do you need to work the throttle? Is it running on all six?
If the carburetor has a sediment bowl, how much crud/water is in there? This may speak to the condition of the fuel tank.
See if you can check the tire pressure if the tires are pneumatic. (Hard to tell from the photo, and are all the tires of the same type(solid or air))
Is the rubber sound, what is the condition of the rims?
Are all the wheels in line with each other, or is the machine knock-kneed/pigeon toed? This may give some indication of the condition of the bearings, both in the hubs, and the walking beam. Check from both ends.
Also, are there any tire scuff marks on either the tub or beams?
Are the hydraulics functional, does the blade stay up, or does it drift?
Can you lift the front of the tractor, and will it stay up. (In the event that the decals are missing from the dash, lever all the way forward is float. one step forward should be power down.)
I'm sure I missed something...
I use one of these to supplement my plow truck. I prefer the speed of the truck for most of the work, and use the SW to shave back the windrows when they get too big. (I live on the inside of a blind corner over the crest of a hill, just downstream from a wood products/biomass generation facility.) The size of the machine keeps me out of the road while working.
I don't think I would want this as my sole machine for contract work, as it is a bit slow, and does not carry enough snow (with six foot straight blade) on each pass. Perhaps with a blower instead of a plow...?
The tracks provide good traction in a straight line. They skate on side hills, and ice. When you angle the blade too far with a full load, the snow will send you sideways. One set of cleats is almost worn out, while the other is nearly new, therefore, my results may not be typical.
In deep or sugary snow, the machine will wallow and eventually churn its way out, though you may not be pointing exactly where you intended. I don't think I would venture into deep wet spring snow, at least not with the plow frame attached.
The plow frame is designed for down pressure rather than lift. It is easy to get the plow hung up, as it does not lift high enough. Some of these units have power angling, mine does not.
The weight/ traction of the machine, and downward travel of the plow cylinder allow one to clear the greasy, wet, packed crap that a truck plow will simply ride over. The motor, assuming it is running well, has ample power to do the job.
My track belting is junk, and as such, I don't venture too far.
For its intended purpose, it works well. If you want to groom with it, it should work OK,(depending on terrain) provided you don't get behind on the packing. I would suspect that a larger, industrial sled might be more better suited to the job. Faster, more maneuverable, and easier to retrieve in the event of a breakdown.
For skidding, don't take too much on each hitch, and lay out your skid trails as straight as possible so as not to flip.
So far, I have been able to find the more generic parts at my local NAPA and bearing supply house. Driveline parts are still available, for a little more time and money.
Hope this helps.
