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LMC 1500 Rear differential fluid

josh312

Member
Hey all! I have a slight leak in my rear diff of my 1986 LMC 1500.. Does anyone know what kind of fluid I should be putting back there? I’ve heard a few different opinions:
- tractor hydraulic fluid (NAPA 85-405)
- synthetic 5w-30
- CAT TO-4
- AeroShell 100

thank you!
 

sheep_mtn

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I think it is dependent upon whether you have an auxiliary hydraulic system or not (i.e. front blade, rear hydros). This is from the manual (AMC version):


1636399262311.png
 

sheep_mtn

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I used to run Caterpillar TDTO SAE 50 in my Imp, but that has a different rear diff of course.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
I may be wrong, but as I remember your cat has wet steering brakes. Synthetic motor oil is going to have friction modifiers in it which will reduce their effectiveness. If it was mine, I'd look at tractor transmission/hydralulic fluid such as John Deere HyGard or a generic that is made to work with wet clutches. If you want to go the motor oil route, avoid "resource conserving" as that indicates the friction modifiers.
 

vintagebike

Well-known member
Using Amsoil synthetic PowerShift Transmission Fluid 30wt in my Bombardier SV200 and probably in the LMC1500 next fluid change. Got the tip from Brad at MinnOutdoors.
 

Snowcat Pat

Active member
Motor oil is not good enough protection for the gears. There is a set of six small spur gears that need all the protection they can get.

For the OC12 we recommend (and use for our customers) regular JD Hy-Gard (NOT the low temp type) in the hydraulic/cooler versions and Cat TO4-30 in the non-hydraulic machines.

In our own machines we use Cat TO-4 30 in all OC12 driven machines. The hydraulic pump growl at startup isn't much more than with the Hy-Gard but it doesn't get very cold here and we park them inside a heated shop.

We get lots of calls from folks just wanting to use what they have on the shelf but motor oil isn't what it used to be, it has much less zddp and often too much moly. Cat TO4 (aka, TDTO) has lots of ZDDP (Phosphorus and Zinc)


I would think think Amzoil a good choice but have no experience with oils in that price category.

I've used them all and this is my conclusion. No judgements on others for their choices, use what you want.

-Pat
 

sheep_mtn

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
For the OC12 we recommend (and use for our customers) regular JD Hy-Gard (NOT the low temp type) in the hydraulic/cooler versions

-Pat
Hi Pat, that's great advice. Are there different temp types? I found this, but I'm not seeing a differentiation between high/low temp types.



1636470908161.png
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Hi Pat, that's great advice. Are there different temp types? I found this, but I'm not seeing a differentiation between high/low temp types.



View attachment 141344
Hygard has two varieties regular and low viscosity. The low viscosity is specified for low temp operations especially in the hydrostatic drive tractors. from a dtac post:

- Low-Viscosity HY-GARD is better than Regular Viscosity in preventing cavitation at start-up. At lower
temperatures, Regular Viscosity HY-GARD gets too thick and may cavitate (create a vacuum void in
the oil due to suction and low atmospheric pressure). This will cause noise and internal hydro damage.

For our snow cat applications the regular would be just fine. I run the low-vis in the two deeres I have, mostly because I don't want to stock two fluids and I have to have low vis in one.
 

josh312

Member
Thanks yeah, I’m a n00b with this stuff. The drain plug I got, but as far as doing the actual draining and refilling I’m still figuring out ha
 

sheep_mtn

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Drain plug circled in RED. Fill plug/port circled in GREEN. Drain plugs for the drop boxes circled in ORANGE - these might be hex screws.

1) Remove the GREEN fill plug.
2) Drain from the
RED plug (about 4 gallons).
3) Drain from the
ORANGE plugs (about 1 gallon each side).
4) Replace the RED and ORANGE plugs.
5) Use a pump to fill oil into the GREEN port until it starts to flow out of that hole. The oil will also flow into the drop boxes. Should be about 6 gallons total. (Tip from @Cidertom : don't be in a hurry at this point. depending on viscosity, temperature, the filling of the drop boxes may be slowed down.)
6) Replace the GREEN fill plug. Test drive, and recheck oil level.


I think this is generally correct, but if anyone has any corrections please advise!

Photo credit: https://www.chameleoninc.com/snowcats/


1640032798742.png
 
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Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
5a, don't be in a hurry at this point. depending on viscosity, temperature, the filling of the drop boxes may be slowed down. Give it a chance.
 
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