lawn spreader and areator?

[dzalphakilo]

Picked up some landscaping timbers at a box store today and saw something I think I need. An areator and spreader for the lawn.

North carolina clay, about 5 acres of grass (that used to be a pasture)around the house, and although in spring the last two years it looked brown and turned to green for the summer, I now have eight dogs running around all over on the lawn and I can see in some spots its taking its toll on the lawn.

STILL NO TRACTOR! (can't justify the money for a farmer wantabe), I do however have that 25 hp ZTR which I could hitch something up to.

How are those spreaders and areators at home depot and lowes? I realize you get what you pay for in most cases, and looked at northern tool as well, some of the same brands there as well.

Any tricks on trying to getting a good green lawn? I'm not one of those guys who has to have a great looking lawn, however, with the new "foot traffic" with the dogs and the wet weather and NC clay, I don't want the lawn looking like crap.

Thks!

 

[Melensdad]

How are those spreaders and areators at home depot and lowes?

I had a spreader made by Agri-Fab. It was a tow behind unit and we used it with our Cub Cadet.

Honestly it was one of the biggest pieces of junk that I've ever bought. The gears siezed up from corrosion and no matter what I tried I just could not keep them corrosion free. It was kept in my garage and I seriously doubt if it ever got wet from rain.

When I threw it away (I dragged it to the curb) I was actually worried that someone would take it, be upset that it was just a piece of garbage, and return it So I honestly cannot recommend that particular brand.

I have been told good things about another brand, I think it is EARTHWAY. They use stainless parts, 12 volt electric motors and pastic hoppers.

 

[dzalphakilo]

Thanks Bob, Agri Fab happened to be one manufacturer I was looking at from Northern Tool.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

Thanks Bob, Agri Fab happened to be one manufacturer I was looking at from Northern Tool.

They sort of work. I gave mine (Craftsman version) to my neighbor to use forever unless I ever need it back. It doesn't aerate very deep unless weighted down so once half the fertilizer is gone it isn't doing much aeration. The drop spreader also tended to not drop evenly. If you don't overlap everything perfectly then you get fertilizer stripes on the lawn.

I'd bought the seperate agri-fab(or equivalent) core areator for my lawn mower and it works pretty good when the ground is wet.

I just bought an earthway tow-behind broadcast spreader and it works nicer than the combo unit. I thought of getting a bigger tractor spreader but I have too many small areas to do that my tractor won't fit into.

I'd go with two seperate units instead of one combo-unit.

PB

 

[dzalphakilo]

I'd go with two seperate units instead of one combo-unit.

Thats what I'm leaning towards. I've seen some areators that seem like a steel roller, and heavy (not sure if it's using water for weight or not).

Curious as to how the ZTR will do with it.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

I do have to put a ton of bricks (literally) on my aerator to make it work well. Load it up with as much weight as possible. Watch the corners as it really tears things up on corners. Your yard will look like a mess for a week or two but I think it is good for it.

PB

 

[BoneheadNW]

I rent one of these twice a year (spring and fall). Why buy one?
Bonehead

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

I rent one of these twice a year (spring and fall). Why buy one?
Bonehead

Convenience. The tow behind ones are pretty cheap and they work pretty good. I can't plan around this stuff. I just have to be able to do it when I get the free time. After 2-3 years it will pay for its self and I can't see it breaking so bad that I can't fix it.

 

[dzalphakilo]

I rent one of these twice a year (spring and fall). Why buy one?
Bonehead

Bonehead, when we sold our old house we only had three dogs but it was in a development on 1/3 of an acre. We had a fenced in area in the back of the house that was probably something like 30'x50'. We only lived there a short time, however, with three dogs in the enlosed space (we only started off with one dog when we were first married) it soon looked like moonscape, bf ungly. Needless to say, when we moved and we had the house on the market, I did rent a pluger, got some hay and watered regulalry. Lawn looked great in a couple of weeks.

Reason for the story is because I remember how much it cost me to rent that walk behind I got a couple of years ago, then the fun it was using it (walk behing plugger) in that small area.

For the first spring/summer here at our current home (couple of years ago), I had no clue how much a decent mower would cost and likewise, no clue what to look for. Talk about sticker shock. Well, for the first spring/summer while I looked and debated, I needed something because the grass wasn't going to stop growing because I didn't know what to buy. Well, as a bandaid until I could make a decision for a "decent" riding mower or tractor, I bought a walk behind just so I could mow. Although it was about three years ago, using that walk behind to cut a good six acres, taking a couple hours a night, five to seven days a week, my first thought is no way in hell am I going to use any type of walk behind

Seriously though, on the one you posted a pic on that you used, how long does it take you to use, and on how much land?

I seriously want to take a couple of weeks in the spring (almost now as a matter of fact) and try to prepare all the "lawn" by plugging and spreading nutriants. I'd figure with a walk behind, looking at least a good eight hours (at least) then you'd have to reurn it. Probably a good two day rental, I'd figure on the cheap side of $50 per day, that's $100, then I'd have to plan on when I'm going to do it and take the time and get it and return it, which would be most likely be another two hours.

The one you posted looks a lot smaller and lighther than the one I did rent at the old place.

 

[BoneheadNW]

DZ-
Can you post any pictures of your lawn so we can get an idea of what you are talking about? My lawn covers about 3/4 of an acre and is irregular shaped. Aerating takes me less than an hour with one of those commercial units. I will usually then fertilize and overseed the next day.
Bone

 

[dzalphakilo]

First two I took today so you see what I'm looking at lawn wise.

First one is looking out the front door, which we rarely ever use. Looking at wanting to go out to the tree line. Property line runs about 130 yards or so directly to your right if you were in the same spot where I took this pic (which you can't see but is lawn as well).

Second one is looking on the right side of the house, you may not tell, but it slopes pretty well. Just on the left of that pic is where I laid some landscaping timbers and placed some rock (you can just see a small section of that in the pic). The garage is off to the left where you can't see, and for the first two years we usually entered the house through the garage. This year I placed a door on the side of the house and built some stairs. One thing that I fogot to plan was that with all the animals coming in and out now through that new doorway was the abuse on the lawn directly in that area (one reason why I laid stone down, another was because when it rained, it would become a mud pit with all the foot traffic). When they used to come out of the garage, they all would go different ways off the driveway, less wear and tear at that time.

Third one is what the lawn looks like in the summer, grass keeps running to your left, going down a hill which you can't see. You also can't see it, but to the right is where the driveway comes in. You can't see the lawn on the other side of the driveway as well.

 

[BoneheadNW]

DZ-
Your lawn does not look to be in much worse shape than mine. Poor soil conditions in some areas, colder than usual weather, and erosion have taken its toll on the lawn just outside my office (see pics below). In other areas I have contributed to the damage by driving my tractor back and forth tracking mud and clay. Once it is aerated and fertilized, it will come back, only to require me to water the damn thing all summer.
Bone

 

[bczoom]

My 2 cents...

For the spreader, it depends a lot on what type of fertilizer you plan on using.
Pellet type fertilizer
In general, I believe a walk-behind spreader is best. As already noted, you need to watch your overlap to avoid it looking striped but I think you get the best coverage without waste. If you use something that's more automatic or a tow-behind, you need to be very careful on your coverage. If you use a fertilizer that may burn (something like Urea), you can almost plan on it if you use a tow-behind.

Liquid fertilizer
In this case, a tow-behind works well.

For an aerator, a plug is preferred over a spike in a clay type soil. What I do is load the top of the aerator with cinder blocks and tow behind the ZTR when I'm mowing. NOTE: You will most likely need to extend the tongue of the aerator by about 3 feet to tow behind unless you make very wide sweeping turns. Without the extension, the tire will hit the side of the aerator.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

DZ-
Your lawn does not look to be in much worse shape than mine. Poor soil conditions in some areas, colder than usual weather, and erosion have taken its toll on the lawn just outside my office (see pics below). In other areas I have contributed to the damage by driving my tractor back and forth tracking mud and clay. Once it is aerated and fertilized, it will come back, only to require me to water the damn thing all summer.
Bone

I don't know about taking lawn care advice from a guy with a lawn that looks like that.

I think the guy that owns this lawn might be a better place to start

 

[dzalphakilo]

Well Brian, yo hit on another topic, which would be better, a plugger or a "spike". But, the spike roller type which is nice and heavy alone without water added is $199 and the same size but having "plugs" is $539

Funny, went to a John Deere place and they said the spike areator was the only way to go (they didn't have a plugger), then went to another lawn care place and the only thing they had was the plugger and they said the plugger was the only way to go.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

Word from the pros is that you spike areate in the Spring and Core areate in the fall.

I just core areating both spring and fall now that I gave away the spike areator.

I usually put down a ton of Gypsum when I do it too. It's cheap and it's supposed to be good for clay soil.

 

[dzalphakilo]

Then the next question is will I have to wire off the "plugged" area with eight dogs running around?

I could rent one for $50 a day (plugger), I'm now at the point that a couple hundred for a spreader is reasonable to me for a pull along, but over $500 for a pull along plugger?...well, I'd have to think about that one. Honestly getting hard to justfiy over $700. Actually, looked at my paperwork from the Deere place. Medium plugger $399. $539 from the other place. Honestly could be a mess with all that drawn up dirt and the dogs running around though, one and only reason why looking at the spiker (forgot less money being the main reason).

PB middle of driveway, about 10'-15' out in the grass, whats the pipe looking "thingy" sticking out a foot or so? Great view, I hope no one can build out past your fence line (about 200 yards back?).

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

Then the next question is will I have to wire off the "plugged" area with eight dogs running around?

I could rent one for $50 a day (plugger), I'm now at the point that a couple hundred for a spreader is reasonable to me for a pull along, but over $500 for a pull along plugger?...well, I'd have to think about that one. Honestly getting hard to justfiy over $700. Actually, looked at my paperwork from the Deere place. Medium plugger $399. $539 from the other place. Honestly could be a mess with all that drawn up dirt and the dogs running around though, one and only reason why looking at the spiker (forgot less money being the main reason).

I'm pretty sure my little cheap Agri-fab core aerator was around $200 at Home Despot or Lowes. I'd check there first.

I wouldn't worry about the dogs. The aerator will leave the lawn looking like a flock of Canada Geese landed on your yard and crapped their brains out. Remember, this is the time to over seed the lawn. Don't fertilize too close before or after over seeding as this will hurt the new grass.

PB middle of driveway, about 10'-15' out in the grass, whats the pipe looking "thingy" sticking out a foot or so? Great view, I hope no one can build out past your fence line (about 200 yards back?).

It's a septic hookup for an RV (with a bucket over it so I don't hit it), it came with the house. I plan to remove it or lower it. when I get the septic tank pumped out this year. I am not an "RV" type of guy.

That field is land locked and beyond it is Gorge Scenic area where nothing can be built. I'm resigned to there eventually being something in the field below. I've planted a row of trees down along the fence line. They are heavily fenced in and a little brown from the winter but eventually they will make a nice screen. There is enough slope on the hill that whatever happens down there won't hurt our view too much. The best places to build on that land are totally out of our view so I have my fingers crossed.

PB

 

[bczoom]

DZ,

For the price difference I'd go with a spike. The one I have has a flat top and I just weigh it down with blocks.

I believe the difference of the plug/spike relates to your ground conditions. A spike can not penetrate like a plug so it's for dirt or loamy soil. Clay is much harder and the spikes can't penetrate unless it's pretty wet. That's where the plug has the benefit. Aerating when it's relatively wet will allow a spike to penetrate in your clay conditions. Using a spike a few times should accomplish the project. As already mentioned, I just tow the spike the first few times I mow. BTW - The spike won't tear up your yard like a plug will.

Adding lime or something will also help soften the clay. If you have any farmer neighbors or friends, they probably spread lime yearly. Ask if you can piggy-back on their order. Some just have a truck (either a 6 or 10-wheeler) come in and spread it if it's an open area or others have a hopper that mounts to the 3-point hitch that holds hundreds of pounds and they can drive through your yard.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

Adding lime or something will also help soften the clay. If you have any farmer neighbors or friends, they probably spread lime yearly. Ask if you can piggy-back on their order. Some just have a truck (either a 6 or 10-wheeler) come in and spread it if it's an open area or others have a hopper that mounts to the 3-point hitch that holds hundreds of pounds and they can drive through your yard.

I don't think Lime has anything to do with the clay. I'm pretty sure it's strictly a PH thing. I use lots of lime. For clay conditions you want gypsum and organic matter. I'm drooling over a nice Top Dresser but the last time I priced a small one out it was really expensive.

Gypsum is fairly cheap here, there is a Gypsum recycler in Seattle that takes old drywall and crumbles it up. You do get bits of paper but that breaks down pretty quick too.

I may just buy a manure spreader and a chain harrow for breaking up the clumps.

Of course, the best thing I did was till the whole yard up and start from scratch. That made the biggest difference!

 

[bczoom]

I don't think Lime has anything to do with the clay. I'm pretty sure it's strictly a PH thing. I use lots of lime. For clay conditions you want gypsum and organic matter.

I believe Gypsum and lime do the same thing. Add calcium.

Clay has a very acidic PH. Some garden plants like rhododendrons and azaleas flourish in these conditions.

Grass on the other hand likes a more neutral PH. It depends on the type of grass but normally between 6.5 and 7.

Lime or gypsum introduce a lot of calcium into the clay which neutralizes the PH. This helps in growing the grass. There's about a million other factors as well.

Here's one of several pages that describe it further.
http://home.howstuffworks.com/grass.htm

 

[dzalphakilo]

Ok, well, have everything, now walk an idiot through this.

I'm used to planting grass in a "bald spots", putting down some hay and watering were needed, never doing a whole lawn.

Assuming areating first, then laying down some lawn fertilizer. Have some rain coming up in a day or two, am I correct in assuming that it's best to lay lawn care chemicals right before it rains? Would make sense to me.

I also assume to areate first, but then thinking about it, if you laid the fertilizer down first, then areate afterwards, wouldn't you be "forcing" the fertilizer into the lawn deeper than you would if you areated first then laid down the fetilizer?

Then, if I want to lay grass, how long afterwards from the laying of fertilizer?

PB, you mentioned "time to overseed", what do you do, just spead grass seed over the existing grass? No hay over it?

Think of talking to a West Virginia hillbilly idiot where you have to talk slow and using your hands at the same time to convey your point, and any "step by step instructions"?

I'll have this lawn torn up in no time!

 

[bczoom]

First (and foremost), what kind of fertilizer are you putting down? Are you getting anything with weed killer included? This will dictate timing for planting grass.

For either, they'll provide instructions on:
When to apply (season as well as before or after precipitation)
Any constraints or other notes on planting new grass. If you get something with a weed killer, it may say to wait several weeks before planting.

If rains are expected to be heavy, I'd hold off. You may get a run-off and then bye-bye fertilizer (or grass seed or whatever else you did).

Tell us again how you're going to spread the fertilizer? If you're towing something behind the CC, I would fertilize first then aerate. The reasoning is those 12" wide tires can close up some of your aerated areas if/as you drive over them. If you're using a push-type fertilizer spreader, the sequence doesn't really matter.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

What BC said is good advice. Remember, that fresh fertilizer on new grass may burn it. Ideally, you want to fertilize a week or two before you aerate. Let the fertilizer work it's way into the soil a bit.

If you are serious about over-seeding properly, then use a high quality fertilizer like Scotts brand. It is a finer granule formulation and shouldn't burn. Also, don't fertilize too much. You really don't need to fertilize a lot when you are about to plant new seed. I doubt it makes that much difference and the chances of doing more harm than good are too easy when fertilizing. I generally fertilize at a lower rate than the recommendation but fertilize more often through out the year.

You may want to get some lime and put it down at the same time as the fertilizer. I often do a 50/50 mix of fertilizer and lime(or gypsum) and then lay them down together.

Let all this good stuff sit and soak in for a week or two.

Then aerate the crap out of your lawn. Then over seed it. The grass seeds will fall in the holes and the plug mess will help the other seeds.

Grass seed doesn't need to be covered much. You could thinly top-dress the bald patches with some three-way soil from a landscaping place (compost, wood chips, and sand) - it's great for covering grass seed.

Just make sure the surface soil of the bald patches are roughed up and not covered in thatch so the seeds can penetrate the soil.

PB

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

What sort of aerator did you get?

 

[bczoom]

If you are serious about over-seeding properly, then use a high quality fertilizer like Scotts brand.

Well, I like Scott's fertilizer but DON'T BUY IT IF THERE'S A REBATE. I submitted a $7/bag rebate x 7 bags. The jag-off's only sent me 1 check for $7. Screw them... They lost my business for years (or life). I'm only a drop in the bucket to them but my $500/year is now going elsewhere.

 

[dzalphakilo]

What sort of aerator did you get?

Honestly, I'm not a real happy camper.

Went over to the Deere place, the one I was looking at they didn't have today, so I got the smaller one (less money, yea!). It's the hollow steel rolling pin type (fill up with water to add weight) with 2.5" spikes. Well, just for kicks and grins, took it out this afternoon, and honestly, should of waited for them to get the larger one back in stock (which they had yesterday). Ground is still a little moist from the the weekends rain, so thought it might be a good "trial" run. Honestly, not impressed with the depth the spikes dig in to, this is filled with water as well. In hindsight, what really has me a little peeved is a different guy waited on me today (same place mind you) and he tells me the exact opposite of what the girl tells me yesterday. Guy told me the smaller one would work, might have to make a couple more passes...oh well. Live and learn.

Then go over to the feed and seed store. Take the empty VW, figuring might get 10 bags or so of fertilizer. Guy tells me figure on 8 bags per acre on fertilizer, then about 14 bags of lime per acre. Ummm....$12.95/bag for the fertilizer, $3.40/bag for the lime. Number one, don't have enough room in the V.W (wife took the truck), number two only took $100 cash with me.

Some days plans seem to fall together without trying and things work out perfectly, other days you wonder why you ever got out of bed. If I didn't have to work today, knowing what I know now, I wish I would of taken the day off and just stay in bed.

 

[bczoom]

Doesn't sounds like you had a good day...

How far were the spikes digging in?

BTW - Do you roll your yard? If so, you'll want to do that before everything.

 

[Doc]

DZ,
Any chance of returning it and trading up to the bigger one? Worth asking, especially since you got two different stories from different sales folks.

 

[dzalphakilo]

Doesn't sounds like you had a good day...

How far were the spikes digging in?

BTW - Do you roll your yard? If so, you'll want to do that before everything.

I didn't include having someone accidently delete some important files at work, getting a flat on the was back from the Feed and seed store, and having a dog bust a screen door after seeing a rabbit (all in one ay mind you).

Spikes may be going into the gound in some spots about an 1" or so, depending. I'll have to deal with it. Thinking about putting some steel shot in instead of water, don't know yet. Leads me to a physics question I may pose later (weight/water displacement/gravity). Some days you forget whats really important in life, yesterday was one of those for me.

Ok, what do you mean by "roll over" the yard?

Yesterday I thought God was playing a joke on me for laughing at all those guys who do yardwork while I was out playing all the time.