just bought st4b #1985.... steering issue

[AKdadio]

I will post picks later, this is an '76 model based on s/n. I just picked it up this morning. It will steer fine to the right in forward or reverse, but will not engage to the left. I have located the variator posts here and will refer to them when I start getting my hand oily. However, does anyone have a quick guess as to what is going on? I noted the belt is REALLY loose, other than that everything looks like it is there and in good shape.

 

[Lyndon]

It is likely that one of the 2 adjusting spring assemblies has been readjusted. Normamly they get adjusted as a pair. Put a new belt on it for starters. Read the article about: Variator. It get's specific about adjusting one that has been torn down.

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=4113

 

[utahwilson]

Had similar problem (except to the right) climbed underneath and noticed all 3 bolts that hold the variator on were missing. Replaced the bolts and fixed the problem.

Congrats on the purchase!

 

[AKdadio]

All the parts/bolts seem to be there. Once I start to trouble-shoot and make adjustments I will attempt to post some photos and comments. Thanks!

 

[AKdadio]

Re: just bought st4b #1985.... PHOTOS!

Here she sits. In pretty good shape, engine runs good, electrical systems seem to be okay. It will need some steering adjustments which I have not begun. Lyndon, it still has the snow shield thingamajiggers too.

 

[AKdadio]

and more photos

 

[utahwilson]

Thanks for the pictures.

 

[cabinboy]

Hey that snomaster looks like its in real good shape , how is the motor and trans? Congratulations on your new cat she looks good !!!

 

[AKdadio]

I have driven it only a few hundred yards, until I get the steering squared away. The engine sounds great. The trans "feels" new, it is real positive from gear to gear. Track rubber is excellent. Tires are excellent. This will be a sweetheart. Has the "second door" on the back too which is a convenient feature.

 

[AKdadio]

Lyndon, or others. I have a question about adjusting the variator springs. It seems that when I move the 1" adjusting nut (which has no number in the manual) it also turns the nut(s) on the opposite side. This results in NO CHANGE to the spring tension because both sets of nuts are moving. ST7021 eyebolt is NOT broken or turning, only the nuts on the opposite side (which are double nutted). I can't see in there very well and have not taken it apart, but looking at the diagram I am wondering if ST3006 "pressure spring adjustment sleeve" has welded/rusted intself to the ST1040 washer and the nut has welded itself to the washer. Is that possible...does the sleeve touch both ST1040's? I have not tried to loosen the double nuts (opposite side of the adjuster nut) apart to see what is under there. Was hoping for feedback first.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

just went through this with mine the adjusting spring is in on a sleeve and both nuts will turn together as you move turn the 1 inch nut your belt tension should chance rather rapidly if it dosn't you have a thread problem in the adjuster sleeve or eye bolt i found the eye bolt broken n mine.

 

[couchloafer]

Great find! She looks in great shape! I believe Lyndon posted a picture of a modified open end wrench he made for adjusting the spring tension to reach the lower nuts......anyone have a picture of it, I cant find it

 

[AKdadio]

Couchloafer- the wrench is in one of lyndons posts, handy but I don't need one in my case, I can reach the lower nut. dds, thanks for post, fortunately my eye-bolts are not broken. I am still curious if the sleeve (ST3006) can connect between both washers (ST1040) to rust them together tightly. I am unable to really see in there to know what touches what.

 

[couchloafer]

I have one out of a cat sitting in my shop......I will try to look at it tomorrow and let you know.

 

[couchloafer]

I looked in the manual and it appears that the ST 6274 bushing that is inside the spring could rust to both of the washers if the spring was compressed down tight to the bushing. If the nuts rusted to the washer and the washers rusted to the bushing I suppose it would be possible. The variator I have out doesnt appear to have that much tension on the springs to allow contact. I dont have my camera right now, I will post a picture tomorrow unless someone can beat me too it.

 

[teledawg]

Kelly,

The variator belt adjustment does not involve changing the spring tension on the 260 210 170 (aka W 20112) springs. The adjustment process just moves the ST 3006 screw (really a hollow sleeve with internal and external threads with a hex-nut on one end) up and down in relation to the eye bolt, ST 7021. That in effect adjusts the relationship of the steering box arm to the position of the ST 1033, ST 7017 (and ST7018) link arms that position the pullys.

The two jam nuts are supposted to locked to the ST 3006 screw that has the 1" nut that is turned to adjust the belt tension or centering. The position of the jam nuts is what sets the spring tension.

See page 35 of this PDF for more info: LINK

 

[couchloafer]

Thanks Fred!

 

[AKdadio]

Wow Fred, great explanation. If I am picking up what you are laying down...it sounds like the whole operation is SUPPOSED to turn together. In other words, when turning the adjustment nut you are turning ST3006, which is turning the jamb nuts because they are threaded ONTO ST3006. I did not realize that ST3006 was threaded and riding "up and down" on the eye-bolt. The diagram in the owners manual doesn't make that easy to figure out. Your manual (that you link to) is much more detailed, what a find.

I will go about "centering" the chives and make her steer correctly.

 

[couchloafer]

anybody have a better picture of the assembly?

 

[teledawg]

Wow Fred, great explanation. If I am picking up what you are laying down...it sounds like the whole operation is SUPPOSED to turn together. In other words, when turning the adjustment nut you are turning ST3006, which is turning the jamb nuts because they are threaded ONTO ST3006. I did not realize that ST3006 was threaded and riding "up and down" on the eye-bolt. The diagram in the owners manual doesn't make that easy to figure out. Your manual (that you link to) is much more detailed, what a find.

I will go about "centering" the chives and make her steer correctly.

You got it. The ST 3006 is like a hollow bolt that threads onto the eye-bolt with internal threads and the jam nuts thread onto the external threads of ST 3006. That is why there is not a seperate part number for the 1" adjusting nut. It is actually part of ST 3006.

 

[AKdadio]

She is centered perfectly and seems to turn equally well left and right. Here is what I had to do:

1) Replace two of the three bolts on the passenger side variator that hold the tower to the transaxle.....they were MISSING!
2) Replace the old belt with a new one (p/n 2926V646) which I might add is MUCH thinner that the original belt.
3) Monkey with the lower adjustment a bunch to bring things back to center. Reaching the lower adjustment from the access panel was impossible, mine is quite accessible by removing the air intake horn.

HOWEVER, I STILL NEED INPUT! I am trying to solve the mystery of excess wear on the drivers side thrust bearing (depicted as #56 in the drawing below). The wear (a pronounced groove) is presumably from the steering arms rubbing against the top. This did NOT happen under my watch, I bought it in this condition.

It appears that the thrust bearing must be/have been spinning with the chive in order for this wear to occur. Is the thrust bearing supposed to turn with the chive?

Any ideas on this problem?

 

[KRC]

Those should be free of the big pulley wheel there is a bearing under the plate to keep it from turning with the big pulley it is part 54 in your diagram. It is a plate type bearing with rollers in it. it must be seized up.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

mine did the same thing on passengers side on the forst run i think the previous owner left the bering out had to walk home and get a bering off the parts rig