J5 wiring in engine bay...need help

[groomer08]

hello all,
just bought a J5 and the starter was already out to be rebuilt, and i was handed it with the bill of sale.
i saw a recent post of the wiring diagram and this basically just showed ignition and dash wiring.
I have a birdsnest of wires in the engine bay that must go somewhere.
so i have a small ceramic resisitor mounted up above diode box(black thing with a few screw connections). the resistor has 2 blades on it, i have 2 wires that have female blade connectors...i assumed they went there but arent long enough.
the diode box appears to have all its wires still hooked up...
and im left with at least 3...small wires with ring terminals.
usually the starter gets a huge hot lead and a couple small rings going to the solenoid...so im just checking...should the solonoid be acting as a distrubition point?
this is a open cab j5 with factory cluster still intact...(i think) bolted to the roof of the bubble rollcage.
this J5 has the factory blade option...i think....single piston skidder style blade
also has rear 3 pt hitch and a ton of aux hydros...was told it ran a hydro rear mower.
going to need a few wheel bearings so if you know where to get those and tires, let me know. thanks a bunch!!

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

parts go to minnasota out doors our member Boggie has what you need as for the wiring first off what motor do you have, and do you still have points ,or has it had an electronic ignition up grade. if you still have points or a factory ford or Chrysler ignition you may need the resister if you have a protronics after market ignition said resister is not needed also some ford duraspark ignitions have a resister wire not a stand alone resister, the resistor is there to protect the points and coil. once the engine is up and running you only need about 6 volts to run everything but on start up you need 12 volts that is why some ford solenoids have 2 small terminals one feeds power to the coil on start up and the solenoid has a diode in it so ignition power wont back feed tint the starter circuit and keep the starter cranking. for the rest of your electrical, lets start with what engine you have and what you have for a charging system .

 

[IMP]

That ceramic resistor is called a "ballast resistor" and its wired in series with the coil and drops the voltage to about 9-10 volts when the key is in the run position. I replaced all the wiring in my J5 because it was a complete mess. I used a wiring diagram for a W300 dodge power wagon (251 flathead crysler) down loaded off the Internet, to help me figure it all out.

 

[IMP]

This is not the diagram I used but very close

 

[groomer08]

okay, so i worked on it again tonight and i think i made sense of it.
the resistor does indeed feed the coil.
i only had 2 small ring terminal wires and 2 large ring terminals plus battery hot.
i had a black small ring that looked like it went to the solenoid.
i had another small ring...lets say it was red...i believe that went up above the starter to either a oil pressure switch or a temp sender....small thread in unit into block just below head with one 11/32 nut on it.
i had enough wire to get the 2 female blades to the resistor once i mounted the oil breather canister to the block and it freed up some slack. had to remove the nipple for this cannister from the block in order to install the starter.
think the other 2 large ring terminals...1 is white or pink and the other is yellow??
this unit has a distrubutor still, and a external coil...like can style 2 wires and a spark wire.
this unit has a flathead 6 chrysler in it and i believe the tag indicates it is a 72 js model.
older then i thought it was for 872hrs on the hobbs.
also found out 5 out of 6 tires are solid rubber...only 1 middle tire on 1 side is pnuematic.

 

[IMP]

The small thread into the block just below the head would be your temp sensor. I wouldn't just guess at where these go how about identifing them with a meter. If you don't have a meter you can check continuity with they don't cost much. Sounds like you have a great rig. A 72 J5 is not very "old". If it really has 872hrs you truly have a gem in the rough before you. I think you owe us all at least one photo of this gem

 

[groomer08]

i have a continuity tester but its easier to ask someone who can glance at their own.
the red wire i ran up to the temp unit looked too long to go to the starter hence i figured he just removed it to get the starter out easier.
the black wire was painted yellow like the rest of the unit and was bent 90 degrees allowing it perfect routing to the solenoid. the other 2 large rings are small gauge wire but dont have enough length to reach the battery so they have to go to the starter large hot.
unit seems to be trying now, ground needed to be cleaned up at the block...but now i think it may be "stuck" due to sitting for 4 years. i just put a few ounces of marvel mystery oil down each cylinder. no sense wrecking something trying to force it over. let that oil do its magic. old duffer i know filled an old crank start tractor right up to the carb with marvel and said a week later it turned over effortlessly. put plugs back in and fired it off. hoping i have the same luck. if not i already found a 4cyl nissan diesel i can shoehorn in there.

 

[groomer08]

no luck on the oil. pulled head, most cylinders were fine, but the one closest to the seat was rusted and pitted bad.
picked up a super hurricane 221 motor, appears it will bolt right up after i swap some parts over.
some of these parts scare me. IE. the intake/exhaust manifold seperation. debating if i should just weld up a set of headers for it.
old motor is out. both motors side by side on shop floor. should have a better look tommorow.(was in a rush)
also going to do some serious cleaning of my tub. its a mess!