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J5 Track Bolts What to use?

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OldGreenJ5

New member
Hey everyone, I'm about to replace the belts on my 1973 J5 and I want to know the specs on the bolts. As far as I can tell there 1/2" dia. and 1 1/4" long and thread seems to be 20 tpi. My question is what grade are they and can i use a more common 13 tpi bolt? Where do i get 448 carriage bolts? Also where is a good source and price for belts?
 
The last carriage bolts I bought were 1/2 x 1 1/2 in, grade 5-13 TPI with a stover (self Locking) nut. I usually overlap 4 holes on a joint,so another 32 , 2in bolts are needed.
Belting can turn into quite a topic, I have used 4ply -440 regular conveyor belt (with a drive side) on my J5 with good results (80 feet) . The last I bought for another project was 5.5 wide fenner dunlop 5 ply 1000lbs piw track belt . For up to 10-12 bucks a foot it's definately good to surf around for the best deal.
J5 Bombardier
 
Oldgreen J5, Before investing in 1 1/2 bolts make sure they will fit in you track guides,the new style inner bolt hole can be tight and I used a regular head bolt in those holes at the overlaps.
J5 Bombardier
 
I got continuous belts for my J5 at Dion-F4 in Quebec City. $880 a set of 4 about 4 years ago.
Belts are also available from MN-Outdoors. Thier ad often appears at the top of these pages.

Bolts came from Northern States Supply in MN or WI.
 
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I'll stick with the overlaps ,I find it faster if a track has to come off for any reason.
Belt Joiners for what I'm doing with these machines( bush work,skidding) etc, is not for me,but maybe for somebody else.
J5 Bombardier
 
Thanks Everyone. J5 Bombardier you brought up a good point I never thought about the overlap my belts are the continuous type. Pixie I have contacted F4 Dion and they said $447.80 per belt.But maybe they meant per track. I'm also going to get my tires filled with foam is it a good idea with cracked up tires? or should I get new ones? Its not like there is tread to wear down. Still looking for a good place to buy bolts and I'll check to see it 1.5" will fit.
 
Continuous VS Overlap

I recently found an old J5 and while showing off for my high school auto class (donuts and drifts) tore off a three overlap and one hinge joiner rotten track.
This machine is so much more functional than my muskeg I am excited to replace track belting.

The prices between Dion F4 continuous and 80 feet of various belting seem close (based on the above discussion)so I would like to know if the Dion F4 belts are predrilled. This will likely be the tie breaker for me having the grousers properly spaced and ready to bolt on.

Soo Are the Dion F4 belts Pre-drilled??
 
Having done some research it looks like;
Continuous drilled $1800(F4-Dion)
Overlap drilled $1600Powertraxx
80 ft 5.5inch non drilled $800 to $1000??

Its looking like cut and drill conveyor belt for our project.
 
Pixie, do you know if they punched your belting 7/16" or did they measure 7/16? I am about to make my belting holes with a 1\2" punch for my 1/2" J5 bolts. I wonder if a 1/2" punched hole measures and looks like a 7/16" hole? I don't want to mess that job up.
 
Do you have a piece to practice on? It's handy to have the hole small enough to grip the bolt slightly during assembly. It keeps the tire guides in place.

The tracks I was replacing had grousers with 3/8" holes so I thought maybe they just used the size in between but after putting new belts on a Muskeg, I see the value of the hole gripping the bolt. A slightly smaller hole also means less chance of any misalignment when you tighten all the bolts.

The Muskeg belts I got from Minnesota Outdoors. Maybe Brad or Pete will know the answer to what size punch is used.
 
IMP said:
Pixie, do you know if they punched your belting 7/16" or did they measure 7/16? I am about to make my belting holes with a 12" punch for my 1/2" J5 bolts. I wonder if a 1/2" punched hole measures and looks like a 7/16" hole? I don't want to mess that job up.
Click to expand...

They do spring undersize after punching 7/16 is correct for the 1/2 bolt normally
You want to have to force the bolt in the hole not drop it in.
 
I will definitely do a practice hole first. The tool I have is for a 1/2" hole so if the rubber springs back smaller then that should look like 7/16 be the right size. This belting is 9/16" thick and pretty heavy duty. I bet it would be a workout pounding the 1/2 bolt through a hole cut smaller. My plan it to start making holes tonight so I will be finding out soon
 
Hey everyone, I finally got my bolts and belts and am now ready to start work on the track rebuild. just one more thought has anyone ever built up the grousers on a j5? (just the round part in the center) I was thinking about welding a small maybe 4" long piece of 3/16" round bar on every one or even a 4" concrete nail. I know this would take some time to do given that there would be 224 pieces to weld on. What are your thoughts on this ? I just thought it would be better than wearing down the grouser all the way to the point that it might break.
 
had machine shop cut about 5" pieces of 1/2"rod and put sight bent to fit curve of grouser and then i welded in. mine were badly worn, so every 4th one was new so i always had a new grouser on the sprocket when running. i think you only have a 112 grousers.
 
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