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Info needed for a couple of j5's

M

mpollock

New member
Hey everyone, love the forum and the wealth of knowledge here. I was looking for an old Tucker to restore when I came across (2) bombardier j5's at a fairly good price so picked them both up with the intention of using one for parts to keep the other one running, but now I'd like to get both running.
The first one was originally purchased by the DNR to put out brush fires and the nameplate states:
Modele: J5 69
Chassis: JS9-66705
Moteur: 80618-0
This one runs like a top with very little hours on it.

The second one has a blown motor and is in pretty bad shape, nameplate states:
Modele: j5
No Serie Chassis: E527S
No Serie Moteur: 50156C
Date Fabri: 27

My goal is to bring the dead one in the shop this winter and put a new motor and trans in it and get it running again, but have little info on these machines. I'd like to get a service manual for both machines. If anybody could shed some light on what I have or a source of info would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to this forum, mpollock !

Manuals are available from Minnesota Outdoors. He may also be able to tell you more about the numbers.

They probably have a Chrysler flathead 6 cylinder 251 c.i. motor but after 40+ years anything is possible !!

If you post some pictures of the specific things you want to know about, lots of folks will jump in with help/opinions.

I have 2 J5s also :biggrin:
 
bare with me on the photos, this is the one that runs
 

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Great job on the pics.

Your one that doesn't run is very early (1950s) and the lighter gauge body. Does the other one have the same rounded area at the pinion gear ? I believe that rounded differential housing was only used for the first year or two that they were produced.

The tire guides on that one are different, too.
The 251 engine is a very good engine and parts are available. Try Vintage Power Wagons.
 
Thanks Pixie, the one that runs does not have the rounded diff cover like the one that does not run. My plan was to pull the bad engine and save it for parts for the good one and replace the bad engine with a Ford 4.9l and manual transmission M5R2, I picked up a 1993 Ford F150 2 wheel drive for $100.00 and was able to get engine, transmission, complete wire harness and computer (EEC-IV), I was trying to find an automatic, but the price was right.
 

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What do you plan to do with the one that doesn't run after you put the engine in it ?
I ask because the lighter gauge bodies aren't all that rugged. If you are going to go to all that trouble with the engine, you should consider beefing up the body. It would need a protective sheet of 1/4" steel over the front of the differential if it doesn't have it and an angle iron along the inner fold of the deck sides at least. Welding to that light steel didn't work well for me ....

Is the overall length of the Ford unit the same as what's in there ? Can you replace the part of the transmission that sticks up ? 'cause that's where your butt goes :ermm:
 
Thanks IMP, those attachments were exactly what I was looking for.

Pixie, my plan was to pull the motor and see how much metal has to be fixed.
The sides are thin but straight, I was hoping to reinforce the front and replace the top with 3/16' and angle or square tube and try to incorporate a roll bar for strength.
The new motor and trans is 5" longer then the original set-up, I think I can make that up in a shorter drive shaft and electric fan.
That hump on the transmission could be the deal breaker. I found a guy online who relocated the shifter further forward but never addressed the height issue. If I cant get the shifter any lower I might have to start looking for a C4 or C6
 

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Cool! A new member... Does it matter what direction the end shaft turns? CW or CCW? Since the motor is facing opposite to the direction of travel, I thought that maybe there was a correlation to what the final drive of the machine needed. Just a thought...
 
mpollock... I have a friend of mine that lives just 2 hrs. away whenever you make up your mind. Please let me know when you are ready.

Thanks, OT.
 
Well change of plans as far as transmissions go. The M5R2 (manual) is not going to work, to much bs to get it in and as Pixi pointed out your ass would sit to high over the shifter and fabing up a clutch master cylinder, it wouldn't be practical.
I picked a 2 wheel drive C6 last night ($50.00) from a 1982 F250 and it came with the slip yoke in the tailshaft. I started measuring and looks like it should fit but my question is:
Do I need to run a driveshaft or could I just connect the slip yoke from the transmission to the yoke on the deferential via a u-joint?

Old Tucker: Did you get my pm?
 
I'm no expert but I believe you need at least two u-joints to make it work properly. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than my self will point you in the right direction.
 
I have a complete great running engine and transmission for a j5 if you are intrested. Im putting a small block chevy in mine:brows:
 
Thanks for the offer on the engine but I've already got the 300 6 cylinder with a C6 transmission installed. Does the small block fit? I had to modify the oil pan to get it to sit low enough and it was tight. I cant imagine the small block fitting low enough in the tunnel
 
Yea a small block chevy fits but its tight. Can't drop it all the way down cause of the headers. As it is I have to custom build them. Im figuring a little angle on motor and drive line. But hey that's what u join ts are for!!!
 
Just make sure that you allow for a sump on the oil pan about 4 inches deep with the pickup going down into it to allow for the oil to circulate and not starve the engine of oil
when on high inclines.
Ray Green
 
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