I have a 1404 Thiokol Imp ford v4 1974, model 32 inch tracks, extra belt, 2 gas tanks, the back passenger headroom is lifted a foot, the clock says 472 hours (seems low but it had about 350 when I bought it.) I've just used it for setting a cross country ski track. Don't know how to price it any advice would be appreciated located in Fairfield Idaho
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imp pricing
- Thread starter Idasnow
- Start date
Dang! Wish you’d have posted back in December! I’m over in Ketchum…. Anyway, I bought a 72 imp full cab from a guy in Northern Cal with matching trailer for under 15k. Parts of me think I could have done better given the condition, but I think I did ok. Mine has 1100 hours. I too would love to see some pictures.
So here are some pics. The trailer (haven't decided on selling it yet) is 4 wheels tandem with a cast aluminum deck and pull out ramps that store nicely underneath. Strap attachments fore and aft.
The cabin has a cushioned bench on top of a long tool box on one side and a lift up bench (legs fold in) attached to the left side. Some glued on soundproofing. I do have windows for spaces between cab and cabin.
It's been a sweet little beast but currently won't start, have issues I'm unable (with my very limited abilities) to ascertain the cause. I've replaced the filter and new plugs, and dismounted the carb and cleaned it thoroughly, tested the fuel pump etc. It gets close but wont quite fire, even with ether, possible distributor malfunction though we have set the points and cleaned everything thoroughly.
I'm going to send it to a mechanic in Twin Falls. If I sell I want it running correctly.
So now you know as much as I do
The cabin has a cushioned bench on top of a long tool box on one side and a lift up bench (legs fold in) attached to the left side. Some glued on soundproofing. I do have windows for spaces between cab and cabin.
It's been a sweet little beast but currently won't start, have issues I'm unable (with my very limited abilities) to ascertain the cause. I've replaced the filter and new plugs, and dismounted the carb and cleaned it thoroughly, tested the fuel pump etc. It gets close but wont quite fire, even with ether, possible distributor malfunction though we have set the points and cleaned everything thoroughly.
I'm going to send it to a mechanic in Twin Falls. If I sell I want it running correctly.
So now you know as much as I do
Attachments
Wow, That’s a clean unit for sure. What is the serial number? Can you tell me what carb is on it? If the ignition System checks out, It almost seems like it has water in the fuel. what do the spark plugs look like? what lead up to the no start condition? is the firing order for the plugs wired correct? That ford v-4 should bark right off. I’d say pull the plugs and clean them, and check for correct plug wire sequence/firing order. when You say you’ve been through the distributor, have you actually checked for spark? It’s gotta be something simple. Hang in there.
Replies:
Idaho Imp-- new plugs, tested the gas directly from the tank for water (none) does have spark (maybe timing?) it was firing beautifully even on cold days then started to take a long time grinding away of (almost-then eventually starting) serial number is T4C0982
Red Sqwrl-- thanks for the generous offer to tackle a repair in June if you come out this way. Since our winter is winding down I could possibly wait that long. I'll enquire whether the person willing to work on it has experience. If your offer works I would of course be willing to pay you.
91jeepmj-- Sorry haven't established a price yet but I'll hold your number and let you know when I do.
if anyone is aware of a "qualified" Thiokol mechanic in this neck of the woods I'd appreciate a number.
Thanks
Idaho Imp-- new plugs, tested the gas directly from the tank for water (none) does have spark (maybe timing?) it was firing beautifully even on cold days then started to take a long time grinding away of (almost-then eventually starting) serial number is T4C0982
Red Sqwrl-- thanks for the generous offer to tackle a repair in June if you come out this way. Since our winter is winding down I could possibly wait that long. I'll enquire whether the person willing to work on it has experience. If your offer works I would of course be willing to pay you.
91jeepmj-- Sorry haven't established a price yet but I'll hold your number and let you know when I do.
if anyone is aware of a "qualified" Thiokol mechanic in this neck of the woods I'd appreciate a number.
Thanks
Bennyboy1337
Active member
I've actually seen your Imp several times driving up to Soldier Mt. Def get the motor looked through an up an running before you post it for sell, you'll easily get back whatever you pay the mechanic to fix her. If you have the space to hold the cat you might want to think about keeping it to sell just before the start of next season (will get you some extra $$$), you'll def find a local Ketchum/Hailey property owner that will scoop it up in a heartbeat with as good of a condition it's in, but obviously I'm biased to you selling it to someone on the forum that's going to keep everyone up to date with the adventures they take it on 
I think +trailer and running motor you could easily get 15k right now for the machine, if you sit on it for a few months I bet you could find someone willing to pay closer to the 20k range.
Good luck with the sell and I hope the motor repairs are simple!
I think +trailer and running motor you could easily get 15k right now for the machine, if you sit on it for a few months I bet you could find someone willing to pay closer to the 20k range.
Good luck with the sell and I hope the motor repairs are simple!
Compression, spark, fuel. Assuming you have compression that leaves spark and fuel. If you are sure you are getting fuel (especially using ether) it might be your spark. However if you are flooded it could be to much fuel and ether might not even help that. One thing you can try is pull plugs and see if they are wet with fuel. You can then burn them off with a flame and reinsert to see if that helps. You said you adjusted the points, but did you file the contacts or replace the points all together? You may have corrosion or burning on the points leading to a weak spark, that could then lead to a flooded condition. Also check distributor cap for corrosion and make sure the center contact electrode is still there, I have seen those fallout, however you wouldn't have spark then. If you adjusted point gap you may have also changed the timing. When you adjusted the points and replaced the plugs did you pull the plug wires? Might be worth verifying the plug wires are in the correct position in the distributor and on the correct plug. Check that they are in the correct firing order. Also make sure the distributor cap is on correctly and seated. If you are headed to Pocatello tow it over, I am no qualified mechanic, but I would see if I could get it running for you, free of charge of course for my time. More thoughts, are you sure you are getting fuel in the carb, I have seen needle valves stick and not allow fuel into the bowl. Just some things to consider, good luck. Also, make sure the distributor is tight and hasn't rotated on you, which would change the timing.
replies:
Bennyboy1337: I lean towards your assessment of values, looking around at what's been selling in the West that seems about right. When I had it sitting down by the highway at a friends place a number of folks stopped and ask him if it was for sale. If you're ever by this way again stop in. Thanks for the input.
GMoose: Thanks for the analysis and offer of help, redsqwryl said he will be in Pocatello in June and also offered help. We filed the points, when I pulled the old plugs before replacing they were dry. Wires were in the correct position, the problem started before I did any investigating and changing plugs, filters, etc. we took the carburetor off and steam cleaned, added new fuel lines. Oddly when the problem started if I killed it I would have to wait a little to restart so it felt like a flooding problem. One thing: inside the distributor there is a small bare wire soldered down and may be broken? Looks like a ground of some sort. A full confession: I am totally ignorant from a mechanical standpoint so most of what we've been doing is with the help of different friends that have more expertise.
Thanks again for you generous offer of help, if I can't get it solved I'll take you up on it. Sure some nice and helpful folks on this site.
Bennyboy1337: I lean towards your assessment of values, looking around at what's been selling in the West that seems about right. When I had it sitting down by the highway at a friends place a number of folks stopped and ask him if it was for sale. If you're ever by this way again stop in. Thanks for the input.
GMoose: Thanks for the analysis and offer of help, redsqwryl said he will be in Pocatello in June and also offered help. We filed the points, when I pulled the old plugs before replacing they were dry. Wires were in the correct position, the problem started before I did any investigating and changing plugs, filters, etc. we took the carburetor off and steam cleaned, added new fuel lines. Oddly when the problem started if I killed it I would have to wait a little to restart so it felt like a flooding problem. One thing: inside the distributor there is a small bare wire soldered down and may be broken? Looks like a ground of some sort. A full confession: I am totally ignorant from a mechanical standpoint so most of what we've been doing is with the help of different friends that have more expertise.
Thanks again for you generous offer of help, if I can't get it solved I'll take you up on it. Sure some nice and helpful folks on this site.
Hmmm, have you checked resistance of the coil? there are many useful blogs and vlogs on doing so. It seems like it could be suffering from really weak/no spark, so it presents like flooding issue…..there’s a guy in Fairfield, his last name is Ballard, owns Ballard mechanical. He’s posted some videos of his father’s Allis-Chalmer’s M-7 snow tractor On You-tube. His channel is Bockscar. I would look him up, he may be able to help you. I’m convinced it’s something simple
Ya bring it to Pocatello in June, redsqwrl is coming to my place to pick up a cat, we could look it over.
redsqwryl and GMoose:
I took Idaho Imps advice and contacted Forest Ballard (a guy I know) and he's going to tackle my problem, he's only 6 miles away and I'm not in a giant rush since my season is winding down. He's a good mechanic but better yet, his dad has been restring WW ll equipment for over 50 years so he can look over Forest's shoulder. Since you are interested it's worth going to YouTube and looking up World War ll Snowtractor... there are a few short videos of the restoration. According to Forest less than 300 of these little beasts were produced before the Gov pulled the contract due to the war ending. Thanks all of you for your input. Watch this space for future developments!
Idasnow
I took Idaho Imps advice and contacted Forest Ballard (a guy I know) and he's going to tackle my problem, he's only 6 miles away and I'm not in a giant rush since my season is winding down. He's a good mechanic but better yet, his dad has been restring WW ll equipment for over 50 years so he can look over Forest's shoulder. Since you are interested it's worth going to YouTube and looking up World War ll Snowtractor... there are a few short videos of the restoration. According to Forest less than 300 of these little beasts were produced before the Gov pulled the contract due to the war ending. Thanks all of you for your input. Watch this space for future developments!
Idasnow
Great call, Make sure he considers the valves, the taunus engines sink their valves into the heads with out the lead cushioning the valves. When this happens they start hard and run weak/terrible. ( ultimately leading to bent push rods) If he is vintage literate he will not need to hear this info.
Those allis m7's are cool we had a collector bring one to a clowder a few years ago.
and consider coming over to pocatello any way.....
montanabuffalo
Member
What type of choke is on your carburetor manual or automatic ? I have the same problem with my Imp after rebuilding the carburetor, It will crank and not fire unless I remove the filter tube and push the butterfly on the choke all the closed with my finger and it will fire over immediately. I have yet to get the linkage adjusted as it was converted to manual choke. Give it a try
Montana Buffalo, what carb do you run? Sounds like poor compression maybe Or leaky intake. Depending on the carb, there may be an idle bypass circuit that rely’s on a groove in the base gasket or riser to create a passage. Make sure they’ve been installed correctly. What happens if you place your palm over the carb intake and crank over? Is the idle stop adjusted correctly? Just a few random thoughts but I hope they help.
montanabuffalo
Member
It's a Solex. Palm is not as effective as pushing the butterfly down. If you push down on it will fire immediately
the little linkage that moves the choke bends ( twists ) very easily. If you pulled the choke one time with out opening the throttle first. You bent the linkage. I learned quickly to not let others start my imp as I have to untwist the linkage when non carb people go ham hand my choke
montanabuffalo
Member
thanks, I'll check it out, sounds like that's exactly what happened because it quit starting fine quite suddenly