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hydraulic pump needed, sw48

blystons

Member
Hey,
I think I need a new pump. Have fluid but next to no pressure. Smell rubber smell, belt burning? Pump feels rough trying to turn by hand, but no wiggle to pulley. At idle, trying to lift blade stalls engine. Can seized pump stall the Ford 300? Is the tank pressurized in this kind of system? Just fixed small hose leak, fluid level had been low a while. Put in ATF F. Could low fluid have hurt pump?

Any sources or tips appreciated.
 
Tank "shouldn't be pressurized in this application.
What was the leak you fixed? Is it possible a piece of old hose (the rubber smell) could have got jammed up in the pump? Can you take the pump apart? What type of connection from motor to pump? Is it possible there is a rag joint connection or a love joy connection?
I've never been near a sw48 so I'm just throwing things out there to look at.

A friend recently thought the pump was gone on his big wood chipper, after he bought a new pump he discovered that the key was broken on the two in feed rollers. It pays to check everything.
good luck,
dave
 
Pump is belt drive off engine. Owners manual says it is Vickers vane style. Pump has 3 ports. I'll try to get some pics up. May not be pump, but engine seems OK on startup and for sure I have almost zero hydro, plow will shudder up just an inch. Leak was a loose hoseclamp on large diameter hose that I assume is input to pump. Sucks that it is so cold here. Rig is outdoors.
 
let's see a pic of what you have I don't believe that the pump could overcome the engine. I would have some concern about the pump pressure relief if it's not relieving it could be slipping the belt as it stalls the pump causing the belt to slip .also you could just have a bad bering I had to replace one last year in my Vickers vtm pump I use for the snow plow on my truck.
 
So here is a pic, FWIW.

The pump is kinda small and cuboid. There are three hoses off of it. The large diameter is (I think) supply - comes from bottom of tank. The small diameter hose that loops out the front (towards radiator) is (I think) a relief hose - goes back to tank next to where supply comes out. The third hose is the pressurized line that goes to the hydro controls in the cab. The big hose clamp you can see on the large hose is where the leak was.

Again this is supposed to be a Vickers Vane-type pump. Manual says VTM 42-40-45-15-MF RI 14 for a model number. Capacity is 4.0 US Gal.min, 1200 RPM.

I think there is a pressure relief valve unit mounted on top of the pump - where the large hose and the (relief?) hose are attached. Second pic shows this clunky looking bolt on to the top of the pump.

Again, I have almost no pressure - lift and turn cylinders will shudder when activated, barely move. And I smell some rubber burn and engine is stumbling at idle.

Obviously I need to fire it up and look at pump while running - it's -8 here and rig is outside. Maybe in a couple days.

A OEM replace would be great, but seems unlikely. Current pumps with these parameters are $$$ and relief valve would require even more. Configurations are somewhat different as well.

One question - is a relief valve needed?

Any other troubleshooting I should do once it warms enough to take a look?

Thanks - I know its not a real snowcat, but you guys have more experience than I do on hydraulics.

I did pull this link of the forum for hydraulics parts and it seems terrific, so thanks whoever put it up:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/

PS - yeah, fan blade has been like that for some time.
 

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you are in luck I know a little some thing about these pumps the insides almost never fail but you can still get rings and veins for them, yes parts are expensive. the relief is in that little hole in the top by the the pressure line remove the pin it will slide out. my best guess is your front bering is out, they are just an nsk bering and you can get them at car quest or napa . there is also an inner seal you will need to remove don't mess with the relief valve setting at about 2k psi the housing will split if you have any concerns about relief just replace the valve it's about 100 bucks the housing is around 5 bills here in Alaska. I can look around I may still have a parts diagram on it
 
the pump is easy to take apart you just remove it and 4 bolts on the back cover comes off keep track of alignment pins and ring orientation. than you can remove the ring and veins at this point you should be able to spin the shaft and inspect your bearings .
 
I've been doing some reading. I think your suggestion about the relief valve might be right. Apparently in the vane style pumps, without working relief, they will definitely cause an engine to stumble and when you hit the gas they will spin the belt. These are my symptoms. I just don't know if this would also result in loss of pressure - seems counterintuitive. The pressure valve I can deal with - I can put an inline one in for now for $50 and a chunk of hose with fittings. I'm trying to line up someone who can work on the pump. It is possible that the cheapest fix is to buy an off brand pump with roughly the same specs, an in-line relief valve and just redo it myself. I can get a new pump for $200 and the valve for $50. Maybe another $35 for fitting adaptors and hose. I'll ask MN Outdoors if they can sell me a takeoff for less money first. Of course it's been nice and warm for 2 weeks before this happened!

Anything else comes to mind, post it right up. And thanks.
 
Here is a link to trouble shoot Vickers hydraulics.

http://www.vickershydraulicpumprepair.com/Trouble/index.html

And here is a link to explain the codes in the model numbers:

http://www.vickershydraulicpumprepair.com/Vickers/Power%20Steering%20Pumps/VTM42/index.html

For example, Bombardier says this is a Vickers VTM42-40-15-MF-R That means it is a Vane Type Mobile, 4.0 gal/min, 1500 PSI relief, Cast Manifold with Bypass, Right hand rotation (clockwise).

Handy links. I hope someone can make use of them. Interesting that Vickers groups this pump as a Power Steering Pump. The "Bypass" is the relief valve, I'm thinking.
 
by looking at your pics of the pump the belt is to loose and would not pull the pump on a warm day retieghten and try agin
 
Good info here. Thanks for the thread. My 1971 Nodwell may need a pump transplant someday and this gives me a headstart.
 
looking at the pic again I noticed a broken fan blade too that also needs replacement before it takes out a water pump.
 
the belt should be a fractional drive belt which doesn't require so much tension if its drawing the motor down it should be dragging pretty good. if it is slipping a bit that could be the smell ,I think there may still be a bearing problem, when rebuilding the pump remember change to a new relief valve. with age the spring is well worn and you maybe loosing a couple hundred psi.
 
Yeah, fan is on the list too, but has been that way for 4 years of plowing. Needless to say i've got some long lists these days. Some things go right. Septic company repaired the failed pipe connection they installed 7 years ago for no charge. Good times, good times.
 
Cannot get the link to post, but if you Google "pll_1409.PDF "you will get all the diagrams of the Vickers vane pumps. The one in the sw48 is on p92. Model # is in this thread. P95 has the MF manifold with relief valve that is on mine. A handy PDF that has fitting sizes !
 
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