NO passport stamp. I can't say we ever felt like we were going to be mugged or had nefarious people following us. Yes, there is an undeniable feeling of tension in the air. I don't know if it's always been that way in Jerusalem or not but I suspect it has simply because of the nature of the place. IDF presence is always visable and for good reason.
The cities quarters are pretty interesting. The Christian Quarter (dark, old, dusty) definatly had the feeling I thought it would. Crusade era buildings..if you like Indiana Jones you'll love it. The greek orthodox and Franciscan influences are obvious. Funny story;
it was cold when we re there, in the upper 40's and rain. I wore a black jacket, hat and didn't think much about it. Well, it seems the greek orthodox monks wear all black with hats, and they have long hair and beards- I was called father a few times catching a few locals off guard .
The Moslem quarter.....
Dark, dirty...to be honest it reminded me of mexico. Same feeling from shop owners trying to pull you in and hock there wares.
The Jewish quarter.
Bright, new, clean, children and families all over, it was actually pretty peacefull !
Here's a pretty detailed trip report I posted on Trip Advisor
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopi...n_Jerusalem-Jerusalem_Jerusalem_District.html