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Help with protecting the deck

R

rockaukum

Active member
Been spending time redoing the deck on a Thiokol 1202B. All the metal is done and decided to use 3/4 Ply as the deck. Searching for some ideas as to protecting the wood. The cat is not out in the elements all the time as it is trailered up the hill when I use it. I picked up a product called Corotech V440, which is a two part epoxy. However when I got home and read through the tech sheet, I find that if exposed to uv light, it will "chalk". No go for me. I tried looking into something called epoxy sealer. Don't know much about it... May end up painting it but again, I just do not know yet.
Any suggestions would be great, Any first hand experience you can pass along would be great.
Thanks,
ra
 
I used a two part epoxy spray. Mix it and spray it on. It's a thick, impact resistant coat similar to pick up truck bed liner. It was a kit, required s cheap application sprayer and an air compressor. Worked very well. No clue what brand. But various colors were available, with rubber chips for impact resistance and sound deadening.
 
I used Herculiner rubberized bed liner on my blade. Spray it on with the right gun, or just roll it on...which is what I did. Drys pretty hard. Will see how it holds up.
In the past I've sealed wood from the elements with boiled linseed oil diluted with a small amount of mineral spirits, though not entirely necessary to dilute. A couple of days between coats to let it soak in and dry. It's what I used on my Imp's bed rails. Leaves a semi-gloss water proof finish.
 
Interesting stuff. I'm guessing the epoxy is the expoxy sealer stuff. I thought about the bed liner, quick and simple. I have redone the deck structure and with the 3/4" plywood there is not much room along the edges where the wood slides under the c-channel. I found a product called liquid rubber which may also work. Time to do a little soul searching to determine which route I'll take.
Thanks for the input.
ra

PXL_20241106_224250413.jpg
 
Here is a link to one product.
semcoworks.com

SEMCO Liquid Membrane™ Waterproofing

SEMCO Liquid Membrane is a versatile waterproofing liquid rubber membrane. Perfect for basement waterproofing and exterior foundation.Excellent for wood, concrete and submerged pool, fountains and basements/foundations. Suitable for interior and exterior use. DIY Waterproofing with easy...
semcoworks.com semcoworks.com
ra
 
Did you use pressure treated plywood (green board) or just plain old cdx? The pressure treated plywood works well with a yearly application of coppercoat.
 
I checked two different suppliers of PT. The product at both places was terrible. Warped and quite wet. I felt it was not something I wanted to be putting my equipment or the dogs on. I went with the cdx. All cut and trial fitted. I plan on calling Semco about the liquid membrane product they offer.
ra
 
I've used a liquid membrane product on communication facilities for roofs, sealing cable penetrations. Did that job well, but was not very tough. it tore fairly easily. ask about that issue and see what theirs does.
 
Let me suggest that you construct a heat shield above the muffler. I have done this using small angle iron welded to the framework with an aluminum plate riveted in to deflect the rising heat from the muffler. If you haven't pitched the old decking yet take a moment and see if it shows slight signs of charring in this location. PT plywood doesn't burn very well but all bets are off now that you switched to CDX.
 
Thanks for the insights. I'll ask them about the durability / tearing issue with their product.
On the exhaust, good point with the heat build-up. I have routed my exhaust to the outside of the tunnel. Hopefully the heat will disperse much more rapidly as it is not trapped inside the tunnel. I'll keep an eye out for any signs of heat build-up. I'll have to ask the mfgr of the liquid membrane about heat as well.
Thanks,
ra
 
Cidertom mentioned liquid membrane stuff. I've used spray-on PlastiDip (brand) rubber stuff with good success but it is not real durable if using on a surface that may be abraded. I used it probably 6 years ago on the silver colored wheels on my FJ because I wanted them black and because...unlike paint...it can be removed with solvents or even WD40. It's still there and holding up well.
 
I contacted the company.
1. prep is sand with 60 g paper and remove dust
2. It Will seal the edges
3. Over epoxy? no
4. Add texture? yes, I think he said coarse sand
5. Scratch resistance? Said light resistance. I questioned further as it is stated to be good for decks. His solution was to paint over it with a latex paint
6.Heat? stated to 180*f
Since they do not sell in the half gallon< he said I would need a gallon.
I have that feeling that is telling me to not use the product. I put it on and then I have to protect it from scratches? Don't think that will work for me. At this point, I may just go with a poly product and add a texture. Easy, fairly cheap, and easy to reapply.
ra
 
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