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Grouser Bar Replacement

kgracey

kgracey

New member
Hey guys,

Just couldn't wait for the snow so I decided to drive the snowcat up on my driveway so I could work on it for the weekend. It was great having the tools nearby, though the driveway paid the price. Those ice picks don't slide well on a driveway, do they?

In this process I also broke a grouser. Thankfully I was given a few extra when I took delivery of the cat. However, the bolts are truly rusted - what a mess. I'd be surprised if I can remove them.

Any ideas for rusty bolt removal and grouser bar replacement?

Thanks!

Thanks
 
I use a 3/8" drive air impact wrench with a six-sided impact socket to remove the rustly bolts, but only after soaking then two or three times with a penetrating oil. Sometimes you will have to drill a 3/32" hole into one face of the nut then crack the nut off with a three pound hammer and a cold chisel. It works pretty darn good.
 
Take a 4" right angle grinder with a cut off wheel ( less that 1/8" thick) and work into the head of the bolt from the side. Keep the wheel flat against the growser so it dosent cut it, just the head of the bolt. Cut the bolt head off. Then punch the threaded part out with a drift. Approx. 5 mins process. No heat damage to the track. :thumb:
 
No no no. Just over tighten it till she breaks! After doing quite a few I found this to be the easiest way possible. The next easiest way is a cutting disk.
 
I agree on the tightening-until-break method. I just wanted to take the tracks off my SV200 and on the first track I tried the penetrating oil and loosen method (not good). Didn't have another tool choice but cutting torch and found penetrating oil likes to burn when torched. (I kept a close eye on belt material and it seemed OK as long as I brushed off the molten metal immediately). Got smarter on other track and twisted off all but 2 ornery bolts.
 
Are you looking to replace these ICE Grousers?
I can fabricate them on my water jet or plasma.
Weld round stock cut to length on them.
 
snowbird said:
I agree on the tightening-until-break method. I just wanted to take the tracks off my SV200 and on the first track I tried the penetrating oil and loosen method (not good). Didn't have another tool choice but cutting torch and found penetrating oil likes to burn when torched. (I kept a close eye on belt material and it seemed OK as long as I brushed off the molten metal immediately). Got smarter on other track and twisted off all but 2 ornery bolts.
Click to expand...

Hey, snowbird we want some pictures...............:thumb:
 
Tighten until it breaks works good too as long as it doesn't become tighten until it strips. :pat:
 
Reply to Boggie:

I'll try to post pictures of my project under the "restoration" segment of the forum. I thought it would be more appropriate there. Hope I can remember how to do it.
 
Snowbird, you clever old man - - - you figured out how to post a bunch of pictures of your SV200 project over in the restoration portion of the forum.
 
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