• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Engine oil?

meanjean

New member
I own an early 80's Bombardier SW-48, powered by an industrial Ford 6 cyl. engine. Gas. Just wondering what I should use for engine oil? Should I go with a common 10W30 oil, straight 30 weight, or a non-detergent 30??? I replaced the old oil with fresh, only to hear the faint clicking of a bad lifter. Barely noticeable when I purchased it, but now, very evident. PITA!!! Anyway, if anyone has a similar engine, let me know what you are using. Thanks!

Snow is here!!!! So winter weather usage, of course.
 
I'll let the experts advise you, but I know straight 30 WT in winter in not good. Non detergent worse.
If it was me, and I had to go on what I know, 5W 30 in the winter is the ticket.
 
in the 80's 10w 40 was the king in the 90's pick up tubes got smaller and you started to see 5w 30 oils my suggestion run it several hours with 15w40 high detergant change the oil and use a 10 w40 synthetis should crank easy cold and build oil pressure fast by the way what is your oil pressure at idle there might have been a bunch of stp added to make up for excessive clearances in the engine
 
Hey guys: not sure on the oil pressure since my machine only has a warning light, no pressure gage. I assume that some STP was added to the machine, since a lifter could be heard clicking way once I changed the oil. So PITA on that one. I will most likely run it as-is for the winter, and see about fixing the lifter next summer. So you say 10W40 high detergent for a while, and then synthetic 10W40? Hmmmm. Not sure on Mobile or the like for older engines?
 
Watch the synthetics in older engines. Some folks have trouble with gaskets and seals leaking after the switch.
 
Seafoam in the crankcase....

My Brother in law has had very good luck freeing up stuck lifers with this treatment. I am a believer of this product in gasoline....But the directions state it can be used with the engine oil in the crankcase. Worth a try I am thinking....

Regards, Kirk
 
Gasoline in the crankcase? Hmmmm... Seems to me that it would thin out the oil and cause pre-matured wear or even crank or rod end failure.. What do you think?

Just looking for opinions on the proper engine oil to use though. You maybe right: just a stuck lifter causing the clicking sound.
 
synthetic leaks are caused by the same thing that makee them supior lubracants that they are long chain polymors and each of the molicules are inter conected so simply put if you have a drop it has a mechanicle bond of sorts to the rest of the oil in the engine the leal isn't any worse just looks worse because of the fact it is trying to stay attached to the rest of the oil in the system usualy replacing gaskets on your tin covers will fix this good luck
 
Very interesting feedback. You are very well informed. I remember living in Montreal, Quebec, Canada when I was a boy, in the 70's, when Mobil introduced their line of synthetic oils. They demonstrated the ability of the oil to stay liquid by showing a commercial where two compressors, in what seemed like Baie James winter weather, where they were put to use by simply trying to turn them over. The one with regular oil did not; the one with synthetic oil did! What viscosity do you recommend?
 
you want to stick with 10/w40 for that vintage of motor 5 w 40 if you are starting cold in extreme cold weather still give it about 150 hours on som 15w40 hd (high detergant) oil to clean things out texaco used to make a product called super motor detergant it really worked good i have to believe some one like lucas makes the same stuff. stay away from products that are a solvent like berymans chem tool and sea foam they will clean things out but my experiance is they will wipe out friction surfaces to
 
ive pulled down engines that had slick 50 addd to them it must coat the inside good because i've had to chisle it out of the oil pan
 
Then it must also be "chisled" off the rest of the engine? Sounds like a good thing. Teflon sticking to metal.
 
Well, I am at the point in starting the beast with 15W40... Lifter still clicking, but not as loud as with the 10W30 that was in it. I will run the machine for a while with that oil, and see how it goes. BUT, I will hunt down a good detergent additive for the crankcase as a add on. We'll see how it goes! Thanks 'all!
 
Top