Check valve going back to well pump?

[bczoom]

Indications are that the foot valve on my well pump is shot. (with no water usage, the pressure will slowly drop)

If I put a check valve right where the supply pipe enters the house, would that help or is it too far away (50' to well, 80' well depth)? I would put it between the well pump and the pressure tank.

I have a 20 gallon pressure tank that I think is giving it the air it needs to let the water bleed back. When pressure reaches zero (I shut off the power to the well pump), the tank goes empty.

Thoughts?

 

[Junkman]

If it is a submersible pump, the foot valve is built in and there might be another problem. That being a pin hole in the pipe that leads from the pump at the bottom of the well to the tank. I have a check valve in my line at the tank, so there is no pressure built up in the line or on the check valve in the pump. One way to know is it the pump keeps going on while there is no draw of water, the better bet is that it is a leak in the pipe. Depending on your experience and ambition pulling the well pump is a easy job. It does take a few helpers though. I never look forward to the job, but have done it more times than I care to remember. If you need to replace the pump, let me know and I can give you more guidance. The newer products are a lot better than the old ones. Expensive, but I can get you a deal if you need it.. About 40% - 50% off list. I will not be available till later afternoon tomorrow..... Junk...

 

[bczoom]

Thanks Junk for your generous offers.

I spoke with a couple guys (whom I'll be recruiting to pull the pump) that believe or think it's the foot valve. It's a lot easier to check than a pinhole in the pipe underground.

It'll loose about 1 PSI every 2 minutes when not in use. That equates to the pump kicking on every 30-40 minutes although there's been no demand.

I do both city water and the well. I switch them back-and-forth regularly. During the week, city water. Weekends (high demand with laundry and such), I go with the well. Using this approach, the pump isn't running much since it's always on demand (the dang washer uses 50+ gallons/load).

I was thinking of a quick fix option (the check valve) as my plate is already full (see thread "15 year blues") and I don't know if I'll have the time to pull the pump any time soon.

 

[bczoom]

PS. For the pressure tank, is there a PSI setting for the bladder? Could an incorrect pressure change the amount it's kicking on/off?

 

[bczoom]

Bump

If it is a submersible pump, the foot valve is built in and there might be another problem. That being a pin hole in the pipe that leads from the pump at the bottom of the well to the tank.

You got me thinking Junk...

I do have a few wet spots in my yard (from springs) but a new one emerged a couple years ago slightly downhill from my water line.

Is there any way to tell if the well water is the origin prior to digging it up? If I shock the well with a gallon of bleach but leave the water off inside the house, do you think I could get the bleach smell to come out at ground level? I assume I'd probably have to let it run for a few days.

 

[Junkman]

Depending on how much water is in the static level of your well, will determine if a gallon is enough. I think that you will need more than a gallon. Leave the pump off for another week and see if the spot dries. Then turn it on and see if it gets wet. You can also use a piece of re rod as a stethoscope and see if you can hear the water running. Turn off the water before it enters the tank. That way, the pipe will be pressurized.... Junk.....