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broken zerk fittings
- Thread starter nixon
- Start date
You could drill it out and retap the threads to a larger size, then install a larger zerk. I think I would keep trying with E Z Out to see if you can't loosen it. You may want to remove the E Z Out, then reinsert it and try again. It may be in on a slight bias making it harder to use?
v8dave
Wizard
Ez-outs are harder than plain old steel. They are a lot harder to drill out if they break off. Without a fixture to hold the drill they are almost impossible to drill on center. Ask me how I know. 
If possible try to drill the zerk center hole a little bigger for a larger ez-out and use it.
If possible try to drill the zerk center hole a little bigger for a larger ez-out and use it.nixon said:
you did not get confused with righty tighty lefty loosy did you?
(we have been known to measure wrong so)
I assumue you tried some penetrating oil with the easy outs? heat can help too but that would be bad on paint and cylinders .. hmm trying to think a bit more for you... umm left hand drill bits...
Junkman
Extra Super Moderator
I no longer use my easy outs, but am now using another product that is similar in design, but doesn't have as much of a pitch as the old easy outs did. This kit is by Snap-On, but I believe that they are also sold under other brand names. You might even find that they are available under the Craftsman name. They are far superior to the old product and I have never had a problem with one breaking off like the old easy outs.
Attachments
BadAttitude
New member
Likewise, but watch the 2 small ones...Junkman said:
I've broke them both a few times
Good thing Snappy covers them, but that may be at the dealers discretion.
Junkman
Extra Super Moderator
I usually drill out the centers as much as possible before using the tool. I also use heat, since paint is easier to apply than drilling out broken tool steel. I am a distant relative of Mr. Brute-wrench, but I am also learning to only tighten things 1/4 turn before they break. My wrenches keep getting shorter when the industry is making them longer. My 1/4" drive set is one of my favorites. I rarely use the 1/2" drive ratchet and since I sold the bulldozer, I haven't use the 3/4" drive ratchets. I was told about a new bolt rust buster by Zep, but haven't tried it yet. Don't know what the product name is either. Anyone here familiar with this?
BadAttitude
New member
Zep makes some top shelf products based on what I've used. Not sure about the stuff you mention.
nixon
Boned
you did not get confused with righty tighty lefty loosy did you?
(we have been known to measure wrong so)
Rick , Nope ! Snapped them using a grease gun . Must have just put some side pressure on them . Anyway, I ordered a new pin and zerks .
Junkman , thanks , I'll see if I can get a set of those EZ outs . John
(we have been known to measure wrong so)
Rick , Nope ! Snapped them using a grease gun . Must have just put some side pressure on them . Anyway, I ordered a new pin and zerks .
Junkman , thanks , I'll see if I can get a set of those EZ outs . John
Alonzo Tubbs
Carpe Diem
John,
Try using a file tang for an Easy Out. Tap the tang into the hole and use a Crescent wrench on the file. The file tang is softer than an Easy Out and the leverage from the Crescent is a great deal more than can be applied by other means. Being applied with a wrench across the flat of the file means it won't slip. Worked well on heavy truck leaf spring fittings. Go easy with the drill. You'll get steel particles between the surfaces you're trying to lubricate. No, a magnet won't work- it's greasy in there!
'Lonzo
Try using a file tang for an Easy Out. Tap the tang into the hole and use a Crescent wrench on the file. The file tang is softer than an Easy Out and the leverage from the Crescent is a great deal more than can be applied by other means. Being applied with a wrench across the flat of the file means it won't slip. Worked well on heavy truck leaf spring fittings. Go easy with the drill. You'll get steel particles between the surfaces you're trying to lubricate. No, a magnet won't work- it's greasy in there!
'Lonzo
BoneheadNW
Active member
Nixon-
I had the same thing happen to me on my FEL. After many attempts, I finally got it out with the EZ out. I replaced the fitting on the end of my grease gun but this one also get stuck on zerks often. It happens on my Kubota and also on my Deere LT. Maybe I'm just too macho (people tell me that all the time).
Bonehead
I had the same thing happen to me on my FEL. After many attempts, I finally got it out with the EZ out. I replaced the fitting on the end of my grease gun but this one also get stuck on zerks often. It happens on my Kubota and also on my Deere LT. Maybe I'm just too macho (people tell me that all the time).
Bonehead
I'm not the only one then! I busted a zerk off mine with the grease gun mid summer and nearly did again last weekend. The darn thing grabs on and won't let go.
After investigating the tip can unscrew to adjust the jaw pressure on the zerk. I ended up taking this piece apart to get it off the zerk. I then set it a bit looser so it will come off easier. Leaks a bit more grease now but saves me trying to extract busted zerks.
After investigating the tip can unscrew to adjust the jaw pressure on the zerk. I ended up taking this piece apart to get it off the zerk. I then set it a bit looser so it will come off easier. Leaks a bit more grease now but saves me trying to extract busted zerks.