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BR100 engine swap manifold problem

9

928mr2

New member
Hi, i'm making a swap on my 1982 BR100, I choosed to install a Ford 2.3L coming from a 1996 Ranger. The engine is in the snowcat but as you can see in the pix, the headers are'nt easy to work with so I wondered how the headers or manifol of a BR100+ look like. Anyone has a photo of the left side of the engine of a BR100+ ?
I made a lot of search to find another configuration of headers or a manifold that woud fit on the head of my 2.3L but it's not a success.
I would like to continue my project but I'm stuck with that darn problem.
Any help appreciated.:ermm:
 

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SORRY NO PICS. BUT I CUT THAT STOCK HEADER AND REWORKED IT WITH SOME PIECES FROM A DONER HEADER. I ALSO SEEN WERE A GUY CUT THE PIPES CLOSE TO THE HEAD AND WELDED THEM TO A PIECE OF BOX TUBING TO JOIN THEM TOGETHER.
 
looking t that photo you could also ditch that egr pipe you don't need it in an off road vehicle plug it at the valve than get rid of the rest the valve will have to stay and move so you don't set codes good luck the best idea is to cut it up and re weld it to work in your aplication when getting a flex pipe to conect between the engine and tail pipe spend the money an get stainless steel the standrad stuff at auto parts stores seems to fall apart
 
Thank you guys for your help. We're planning to modify the headers cause the material we need to make one is not easy to find around here (small place).
About the EGR, I already removed it but did I realy need to leave the valve there? I don't care if I have a code (i'll will have many anyway with one/two O2 sensor missing) As long at the engine gives all it has...
 
without o2 sensors it will never run right always run in rich mode to save motor, egr code will not give you any issues with running, I would probally find a way to put in o2 sensors close to proper position or at least put a resistor in wiring to trick computor to think they are working
 
Thank's for precious info. Someone told me to keep only one sensor, the one nearest to the engine, that it would be ok. That's what I was planning to do. I hope it will be ok.
I wonder if it would be interesting to make a post with pix on this forum about the swap I'm making. Maybe I'll ask If some there would an interest for that.
 
i would use both o2 sensors and on the advanced eec 4 engines the egr code can cause stumbling and hesitation also there is no way to trick the computer on an o2 sensor the o2 sensor produces a voltage between allmoste 0 and 1 volt when heated and in the presence of oxigen the o2 sensor is coated with zicronia oxide and is a self saciificing so they do wear out with time go ahead and use both sensors i would also put the egr back on and hook it up so it goes through its movements and the computer thinks egr is happening
 
dds said:
i would use both o2 sensors and on the advanced eec 4 engines the egr code can cause stumbling and hesitation also there is no way to trick the computer on an o2 sensor the o2 sensor produces a voltage between allmoste 0 and 1 volt when heated and in the presence of oxigen the o2 sensor is coated with zicronia oxide and is a self saciificing so they do wear out with time go ahead and use both sensors i would also put the egr back on and hook it up so it goes through its movements and the computer thinks egr is happening
Click to expand...

Just to be sure I follow you well, I can remove the pipe between the EGR valve on the intake and the headers but I must leave the valve itself on the intake? And what do I do with the EGR sensor and it's 2 little hoses that was on that pipe?
Thank's for your help
 
remove the egr pipe and plug off the egr port than remove the egr mig welt the intake port on the valve closed this will alow the pintle on the exhaust side to work with no egr you will have to leave the slenoid and hoses attached because the computer will want to see the pintle moving up and down when it comands it to do so this is how the computer determins if egr is happening as long as the pintle is moving through the egr position sensor you will see no codes and the engine will work just fine i have done this many times in off road applications with out a problem however in a high heat situation you could get detonation from the engine the egr's controls formation of oxides of nitrogen by inducing inert gasses and cooling combustion chamber tempuratures .
 
In another way of saying it, I just disconnect the whole EGR system from the exhaust?
And I plug the port on the headers.
I'll put back the two O2 sensors on the exhaust line but since I won't put back the catalytic converter, will it be ok if I simply put them at the beginning of the new exhaust line at a few inches one from each other?
Do you know what I should do with the canister line sensor? (if I may call it like that)
 
the purge solenoid like other switches should be left hooked up electricaly but the hoses can be plugged at the intake also make shure the intake side of your egr is plugged either with a custom high temp gasket or a plug welld in the intake side of the valve or you woll have a vaccuum leak when the valve opens up
 
Thank you very much Don for your help. I must admit that I'm not sure of everything but I will analyse what you wrote me along with my work on the engine. I'm not a mechanic and I'm not an English native speaker so...
Thank's again
 
928mr2 said:
Thank you very much Don for your help. I must admit that I'm not sure of everything but I will analyse what you wrote me along with my work on the engine. I'm not a mechanic and I'm not an English native speaker so...
Thank's again
Click to expand...
no problems i speak t languages fluently redneck and profane and i spell the same way
 
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