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BOW window....

Gerard

Gerard

"You have to"
I'm going to be putting in a BOW window and was wondering what to do/use to support it. It measures 4'H x 6'W. There are different ways/styles to do this so any photos or input would be great. Thanks in advance.
 
Too little information G-Man.

What kind of wall is it going into? Also what kind of window (vinyl clad, all wood, wood & metal) Is this an existing opening? If not you'll need to put in a header and double up the Kings and add a Jack or two. Size of the window....I'd have double Kings and Jacks. Double 2x12 Header preferrably but your wall height and window height may conflict and you'll have to do something else. How thick are your walls? 2x6 gives you greater flexability in framing for the window. Do you have siding or brick or stucco on the exterior? Give me a few of these details and I can help you out.
 
Fine homebuilding and a handful of woodworking websites offer good instructions -- so does the Pella website.

Basically, you'll need to build a shelf for the window to sit on with diagonal bracing under it to transfer the weight at the leading edge of the window back to the wall.
An alternative to this uses steel cables and all thread rod to hang the window from the header. (Pella)

for my 7x4 by 30 degree bay windows, I did a combination - used the steel cable supports AND the platform underneath. You'll also want to insulate above and below or you'll get condensation on the wood (top and bottom) where it extends out past the wall.
 
Too little information G-Man. How'd you know that was my nickname Cowboyjg? :unsure: :mrgreen:

The studs are 2x6 and the dimension to the ceiling is 14 1/2".
Here's an older photo that shows the two windows I want to remove and replace.
 

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I'd laminate a header out of plywood and eps foam once I knew the true dimensions of the bow window.
2 pieces of 3/4" ply glued together, then 1" eps, 1/2" ply, 1" eps, 2 more pieces of 3/4" plywood. then screws on 6" centers (alternating sides)
this would be overkill, but better safe than sorry. (4 1/2" of eps sandwiched between 2 skins of 1/2" OSB would likely be plenty strong so long as your glue did not react to the eps. (eps = expanded polystyrene foam)

you might also consider building a storage bench and stub wall the same dimensions as the new window from the floor up to make the whole thing a built in "nook". The space above the window on the outside gives you room to build a shed style roof to cover it, unless it's alre3ady under an eave, the it might make more sense to carry the shape of the window up to the eaves and fill the hollow with insulation. (or build it up out of 2x6 jacks and put more built in storage above the window)
 
Erik said:
I'd laminate a header out of plywood and eps foam once I knew the true dimensions of the bow window.
2 pieces of 3/4" ply glued together, then 1" eps, 1/2" ply, 1" eps, 2 more pieces of 3/4" plywood. then screws on 6" centers (alternating sides)
this would be overkill, but better safe than sorry. (4 1/2" of eps sandwiched between 2 skins of 1/2" OSB would likely be plenty strong so long as your glue did not react to the eps. (eps = expanded polystyrene foam)

you might also consider building a storage bench and stub wall the same dimensions as the new window from the floor up to make the whole thing a built in "nook". The space above the window on the outside gives you room to build a shed style roof to cover it, unless it's alre3ady under an eave, the it might make more sense to carry the shape of the window up to the eaves and fill the hollow with insulation. (or build it up out of 2x6 jacks and put more built in storage above the window)
Click to expand...

Erik, are you an engineer by chance....:yum:


Everything Erik has mentioned are great ideas. As far as the header is concerned, I don't think the R value would be significantly different enough to not use engineered lumber for your 2x material with insulation board either on the inside or outside face of the header. The benefit to it being on the outside face is it gives you a nailing surface for rods and shelves and curtains and such. Don't forget your flitch plate in between. As far as glue between the header pieces, it doesn't hurt but there is no real evidence that it really helps anything other than your peace of mind.

Although it sounds interesting, I've never used Eriks technique personally so you'll have to determine the value it has to your particular application.

Don't forget to carry your header out past your studs on each side. Primarily for bearing but also for curtains and such. Double your Kings and Jacks and your sill. The window manufacturer should have provided installation information and will let you know of any additional hardware you need.

Water mitigation outside is critical. Don't skimp. Flash/Wrap your sill, sides and header!!!

Sounds like fun. Wish I were there. I enjoy that kind of stuff!


*I'm suspecting the outside elevation is such that, estetically, the window should have it's own cover and not tie into the eave.
 
BPP, seriously. Learn how to use the shift key.

And in defense of G-dawg, I've seen pics of some of his work and he does a really good job. I salute him in his attempts to tackle new and different DIY challenges and look forward to his pics on this project.

And btw, what da heck is a BOW window?:yum:
 
jpr62902 said:
And btw, what da heck is a BOW window?:yum:
Click to expand...

A BOW window is similar to a BAY window, except where a bay window has 2 narrow casement, single, or double hung windows flanking a large picture window (at least usually - sometimes it opens as well, but that's pretty rare due to the weight of large panes of glass), a bow window is composed of several (usually an odd number like 5 or 7) identical sized windows on a symmetrical curve (or bow) with some or all of the windows being capable of opening.
 
Go Errrik....Go Errrik.....

BPP....The G-man did just what you suggested. Erik and I ARE pros. He called...we came! :w00t2:

Although I can't say specifically what Eriks LOW is, I however build for a living.
 
Facilities manager - so I have to keep up on maintenance for 40k square feet of building, wrote the spec document that was used for the build, rode herd on the contractors while it was being built, coordinate contractors for repairs, etc...
I used to do rough carpentry and roofing, as well as home repair to get me through college, and I still do some of that as a sideline, although I prefer cabinetry and furnituremaking.
Built my own house, getting ready to build a 32x48 garage/shop.
so while I may not be a pro, I'm at least a talented amateur. ;)
 
You may need a suspension system depending on the manufacturer. I put an 8 ft bay in my living room. Have some tall strong helpers. I used my backhoe to lift mine and it was still a workout. My header is 2x10 and 1/2 inch ply glued and screwed together. I extended it 6 inches past the window opening. Putting up the drapery rods and curtains was as much of a pain as the window install.
 
A bow window should be self supporting when you nail the side flanges where as a bay window must have support braces put below it. I'm sure each manufacturer varies but i put a lot of windows in over 20 years and that is my experience anyway. I have an 8' wide by 4' tall anderson bow in my house only nailed thru the side flanges which is all it called for. Been there 27 years and it ain't moved yet.
Yes ,you do need a header to span across the top though.
 
All you guys are the best! All the info I've received so far is getting put into a plan. I'm going to give it a go pretty soon so keep this thread in mind. :smile:
 
Dur.....where the H E double toothpicks have you been? Then again, I knew you couldn't keep your hands off this thread......:brows:

OK fellas....just an FYI.... I'm going to MD for the holiday to see my wife's folks. Won't have access to the CPU..well maybe not. Any way Have a great weekend! See you on the return leg.
 
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