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bombardier jw9 im looking at

N

Nmaine1313

New member
im looking a bomardier jw9 i cant find any info about it i think its very similar to a j5 or sw48 if know anything about it i think it has a flat head 6 cylinder heres a few
 

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Just when you think you might have these bombardiers kind of figured out a tag like this pops up.
Either way, nice machine ,I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a Smartie.
J5 Bombardier
 
ok ill have to check im going to pick it up this week it been sitting for 5/6 years any thing other the grees and oil and fuel i should check before geting it going? btw im a litter new to the bombardiers
 
so i got it towed it home now im working on getting it going i did measure it its 48 inch wide and 10 ft long over all im trying to figure out what year it is?
 
thanks anyway. so i got it home and ben trying to get it going com to find out i got 120 on one and 110 psi on another cylinder and the rest has non i belive it cylinder 1 and 4 that has compression the rest has none im thinking stuck valve or broke spring any advice to start digging in to it ?my plan was to pull the manifold to get to the valve cover and go from there the motor been siting for 6 years at lest
 
Stuck valves or blown head gasket seems likely. Pulling the head off is probably in your future.
 
I would pull the head to see if any valves were stuck and cyl condition . Remove the side covers if you want , but I would not remove the exhaust/ intake unless the gasket is blown, ( they don't like to be disturbed)
Just my opinion. Keep the pics coming
J5 Bombardier:hammer:
 
……. so your ''dry'' test wasn't very encouraging, bummer. so you can do a ''wet'' compression test. what that will tell you is if it's valves or piston/rings/cyls. related. basically you wet the cyls. , one at a time , with some oil . I like to run the piston down to the bottom of it's travel , take a ''squirt'' oil can , or so, and lube the inner cyl. then rotate the engine over a few revolutions by hand, at first. to work the oil up & down & all around. then cover spark plug hole with shop rag, spin engine over with the starter , to expel the excess oil . you don't want excessive oil in cyls., ''hydro-static '' lockup occurs. hard on starter, rods, rings, crank, etc. a few squirts is good, don't fill the cyl. with oil, too much , alittle goes along ways. so install tester . bump it over a few short rotations, to make sure no lock up. then crank it . compare psi tests to each other . if pressures go up; then rings/pistons/cyls. are worn severely. if pressures don't change, then most likely valve related, or a headgasket issue. also with the wet test; if it is a headgasket issue, sometimes you will see oil ''mist'' come out of an adjacent spark plug hole , while testing another. also key is a good starter, battery , charger hooked up , for proper rotation rpm .
 
Probably exhaust valves stuck open , those old chrysler,Dodge flatheads are famous for that!! i had issues with three different flatheads doing that. I finally took all the exhaust valves out and opened up the guides a few thousands ,no problems since. Don
 
Ok thanks for the advice I’m going to work on it this weekend do y’all have any recommendations where to get a head gasket and intake gasket ? And it didnt mater wet or dry compression test
 
Will post the NAPA number for you when I get home. The 251 gasket is slightly longer than the 230 gasket at the water pump end.
J5 Bombardier
 
So I went ahead and pulled the intake and head and found the stuck valves freed them but the keep get stuck so I think I’ll bill them and clean them up here’s some pic of it and do anybody know where to find a exhaust manifold I had one crack on me ?
 

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hey do any one know were to find a water pump for one if a Chrysler 251 ind motor i got a gates brand 42554 and its close but the pully don't fit it touchs the hosing ill post some pics when i get some
 
42554 from Napa is the number for the last water pump I put on a 251. Now whether I had to grind the housing for pully clearance, don't recall, but it's still on there. I know it had a modern type seal compared to the old one, which I couldn't find a kit for.
J5 Bombardier
 
ok so after putting the head back on i got 100-110 psi in 4 cylinders and 2 have 75 psi i adjusted the valves and tryed starting it cant get it to run ive tryed everything it sounds like it want to run but i cant get it to im about at the point of pulling the motor and finding a small diesel to replace it with any thought on a engines that you can think might work ?
 
4 cyl ISUZU would be my choice for diesel, if you can find one. The starter can be clocked and it will fit in the 23 "1/2 tub . A 300 I6 for a gasser , I'm heading that way with the ford in a J5 of mine.Not worth it to fix the low oil presser problem with the 251 that is in it. I plan on spending some money on the ford and in the end the extra horsepower compared to the flathead will be worth it .
J5 Bombardier
 
That motor should run fine with those compression numbers,i would check ignition and carburation. ive seen them run decent with a lot less compression.
 
thats what i was thinking ive tryed with and with out carb ive reset the ignition timing still same thing im geting a back fire out of the intake it sounds so close im wounding maybe thow some new wires on it . thats the only thing i havent changed yet im going to give it one more shot this week if not im going to be looking for a replacement
 
i didnt pull the distributor till after i was having the problems im going to go back and recheck everything this week im going to throw a new set of wires on it i figured it cant hurt ill let yall know when i do thanks for the input
 
Nmaine1313 said:
hey do any one know were to find a water pump for one if a Chrysler 251 ind motor i got a gates brand 42554 and its close but the pully don't fit it touchs the hosing ill post some pics when i get some
Click to expand...

Late to the game here, but my 265 had the same exact issue. The new pumps have a slightly different casting. Sitting side by side they were identical other than a microscopic difference at the top water bypass cast area (where the pulley was making contact). But as I was trying to figure out why, I found a shim on the old water pumps flange (so gunked up originally you couldn't see it). It was probably 1/16" thick, but still wasn't enough. I put the old one back on the motor and then could clearly see the WP pulley was offset to the crank pulley a full 1/4" and had been that way for?????? The perfect shim was on the old pump. We heated the flange to drive it off of the shaft then machined the center out of it (in orange). Drilled the 4 threaded holes and used that for the new shim. Pulleys up perfect now.
 

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ok so it runs new wires and fuel pump the biggest problem was with what i thin is some kind of cold wether choke or somthing its under the carb in between the carb and manifold theres a throttle body that wasn't letting enough air in any body know what it is and do ?
 

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The side plate screws with the wire seal are a sometimes tough to get out of the aluminum housing, inside another set of plates with an adjustment/ spring set to close if over speeding. I just cleaned up a 2 barrel version on a 318 works fine , on my 2 flatheads I don't use them, I never go over 2500 rpm ,they do not liked to be over revved, but that's just my opinion.
J5 Bombardier.:hammer:
 
so i got it running and driving. im having a problem with it runing hot and spitting coolent out the over flow i thought it was just air but it keep doing it new radator cab any idea?
 
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