Access to engine: is the front cab removable or tilt open

[BoyToys]

Studied the diagrams for my 1404 Imp in the manual and it appears that the front portion of the cab is removable as a unit along with the windshield. I have a pivot/hinge on the right side but not the left, and no such thing shows in the diagrams. Only God knows what the previous owner did to it.
So...if a person wanted access to the front of the engine for such mundane things as checking ignition timing or changing belts, how in the world is that done?

 

[redsqwrl]

shoot a photo of your engine cover. timing on an imp could not be easier.

 

[BoyToys]

shoot a photo of your engine cover. timing on an imp could not be easier.

A few picts this morning. Sorry for the quality - the sun kinda washed them out a bit. Even with taking the top and sides of the engine dog house off I can't get access to the crank pulley to see timing marks to point a strobe at. Maybe would have to go through and underneath the plate where the plow hydraulic hoses go through. Access hatch to the radiator isn't the ticket either.
Note the hinge installed on the drivers side lower corner. Don't see how that's even functional without unbolting the whole front end somehow.
This thing has had a rough life up front at one time, with some sheet metal repair and changes to accommodate the plow.

 

[BoyToys]

Since I created this thread, I guess I can update it partially with regards to ignition timing access.
Looking down closely between the 1" gap behind the top of the radiator, I spied the crank pulley and timing reference marks. Didn't have the crank in the right position to see the notch in the pulley forTDC but that's ok for now. Just figuring things out in advance.
Still have no idea how to remove the front nose off the ol' Imp to gain full access to the front of the engine if needed.
And oh...also found the location of the hydraulic pump for the plow.
Making small progress.

 

[redsqwrl]

You got it. but first some sassy pants. that is the camshaft you are looking at. the crank doesn't come out of the engine on that end. be nice to that pulley it is a phenolic gear that drives it
I rub chalk on the marks, take the alternator cover off and jam my head in there to see it.

The cowl or the front of the cat is not overly hard to take off if i remember right the windshield frame rests on it as well

 

[Idaho IMP]

Here is a picture of what I did to re-plumb my air intake to the Weber carb. I had removed the spacer ring from the top of the Weber cab, and found a silicone elbow on eBay. With some trimming, it fit perfectly over the air intake. The other key was to properly route the valve cover vents Into the intake. To do this, I welded a pair of steel conduit stubs to a chunk of 2” steel tube I had In a tee manner. From there I used a piece of 2” Aircraft scad hose from Wick’s Aircraft Supply to connect the tee fitting to the Donaldson oil bath under the hood.

 

[BoyToys]

Sassy? Nah, just educational....keep it up.
This is a weird motor in many ways. I believe I also spied an externally mounted water pump.

The photo is looking straight down the front of the engine behind the fan, to the bottom of the engine and the pulley directly above the oil pan...typically where you would find a crank pulley or harmonic balancer with a timing notch cut in it.
Yeah, I can see where taking off the alternator and peeking in there might work

 

[BoyToys]

Here is a picture of what I did to re-plumb my air intake to the Weber carb. I had removed the spacer ring from the top of the Weber cab, and found a silicone elbow on eBay. With some trimming, it fit perfectly over the air intake. The other key was to properly route the valve cover vents Into the intake. To do this, I welded a pair of steel conduit stubs to a chunk of 2” steel tube I had In a tee manner. From there I used a piece of 2” Aircraft scad hose from Wick’s Aircraft Supply to connect the tee fitting to the Donaldson oil bath under the hood.

Silicone elbows are the way to go. At some point I can see myself going to a Weber and dump the old Solex. Is that a Weber 32 ICH you're using (somewhere I read that).
I ran and tuned Webers wayyyyy back in my early days playing with British cars. Good carbs, easily tuned as long as you have a pocket full of assorted jets.

 

[Idaho IMP]

Yes, it’s a ICH from Dan Gates. It was plug and play for the most part. I did put a larger jet in. It was missing a Welch plug tho so I hadda figure that out to get it to idle. Great carbs, very simple and easy to find parts for. Mine will start immediately warm or cold. I run an unregulated electric pump but I may go back to a mechanical pump for simplicity.

 

[BoyToys]

Yes, it’s a ICH from Dan Gates. It was plug and play for the most part. I did put a larger jet in. It was missing a Welch plug tho so I hadda figure that out to get it to idle. Great carbs, very simple and easy to find parts for. Mine will start immediately warm or cold. I run an unregulated electric pump but I may go back to a mechanical pump for simplicity.

Doing a little research: you are using a 34 ICH Weber. Do you have any knowledge of the jet sizes it came with as well as the venturi size (I'm guessing you have a 27 or 29 venturi). It's critical to be sized correctly for max torque at lower to mid rpm range, which is where these old V4 motors should run imo. Larger venturis shift the power band to the higher rpms.
Maybe Dan Gates set it up specific to these engines (who is he, btw?). Thanks,

Mark

 

[Idaho IMP]

Doing a little research: you are using a 34 ICH Weber. Do you have any knowledge of the jet sizes it came with as well as the venturi size (I'm guessing you have a 27 or 29 venturi). It's critical to be sized correctly for max torque at lower to mid rpm range, which is where these old V4 motors should run imo. Larger venturis shift the power band to the higher rpms.
Maybe Dan Gates set it up specific to these engines (who is he, btw?). Thanks,

Mark

I swapped out the stock idle jet for a .60 for altitude. I dont know what size Venturi It has. I agree with you about maximizing torque at lower rpm’s. I dont like to run this over 2100 rpm’s. There’s no need. I typically run the rear end in 2nd and 2nd up front. Slow creeping or loading is 1-1 For me.
Dan Gates is Snowcat Service in Salt lake. He is a big thiokol guy and has all of the original shop drawings/build sheets for all units produced from Thiokol through to the end with Delorean.