1986 LMC 1200 - Driveline Parking Brake

[Sylvia Tunaskas]

You were so much help on my first question, I am going to try again. The unit was serviced before we bought it. When we backed it off the trailer it made a terrible clanking sound. We finally tracked it to the driveline parking brake. We determined it was more noisy than serious so drove it to the cabin. On further observation it looked as if the forward two brake pads were loose and banging around. If you pulled or adjusted the cab/inside lever it dissipated, but never went away. We did not have the right size tools, so went up a week later to tighten things up. The passenger side pad had a 5/8 nut and bolt, when tightened it quit banging around. The driver side pad had a 9/16 nut and bolt. When I tightened it it made no difference. It still wobbled side to side and up and down. This led me to believe I needed to put a 5/8 on that side and hope it cinches up like the passenger side. I then grabbed and shook the entire forward mechanism. It appears the top cross piece ( adjustment cable in middle and a rod on each side ) was loose on each end where it attached to the verticle pieces that go to the forward pads. I could put a 1/2 wrench on the outside nut, but could not secure the inside one. It appears that the inside bolt head is an alan head. I did not have a big enough one so had to let it be. We are going up on Weds. and I have put together a tool box and purchased an assortment of grade 8 bolts and locknuts. For the brake pad, I did not measure the distance so got a 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 bolts in half inch progressive lengths. I also got 1 1/2 for the cross piece attachment with both an alan and hex head. Needless to say I would like to spend more time playing than wrenching, but for now I gotta play the hand I am dealt. My questions are: Am I on the right track for a solution? Have I overlooked anything in the way of supplies to get the job done? And finally any tips on adjusting the cable (top and/or bottom) as well as the lock type adjustments near each forward pad. It will sure be nice when I get the manuals. Thanks again for any insight you can give me.

 

[mtntopper]

Here you go Sylvia........... I own (2) 89 LMC 1200's and this info will help you get the right tools and pieces together. I also have a complete set of new brake pads if yours are bad. They were pricey when bought them as new. I bought a set and the owner of the cat they were to be installed in decided it was too much money and he really did not need an emergency brake. So I do have the pads if you need them.

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[Sylvia Tunaskas]

THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! The pads still have a lot of material on them, it is just the loose parts and rattling that is annoying. There are 4 other units at the cabin and they all say they never use the hand brake. My philosophy is, it is there for a reason, so I would like it to be operable at least. We are going up tomorrow, so I can check my parts against your drawings, and hopefully have what I need to put it to bed !! I owe you big time. Thanks again.

 

[Snowcat Operations]

The reason they say that is two fold. First there is a possibility it could freeze in the "engaged" position. Second if its on and you forget it could get hot enough to catch on fire but again not likely since you should beable to feel the resistance unless its not properly adjusted. My Super Imp screams at me when I have tried to pulled forward with the e brake on. I would say use it but become familiar with it just in case it does freeze up and needs some persuation to loosen up. Always engage it when parked and when trailering.

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

Sylvia Tunaskas. could not help but notice your last name it might be lithuanian? similar to mine "Rakauskas" would have sent E-mail but you do not have it set up.

 

[Sylvia Tunaskas]

Just another one of those Greeks !! We just got back from the cabin and the brake noise is better, but not completely gone. I was not able to get the alan wrench on the passenger side cross piece bolt head to tighten it. I need a shorter hook on the end, so it does not hit the "thingy" on each side of the adjustment cable. The bolt size for the pad worked great for the passenger side pad, but it came too close to the front ujoint. Mtntopper's spec sheet looked like it called for a 2 3/4", but I did not want to find out the hardway it was too long. I used my trusty hack saw and cut off some of the bolt to be safe. Thanks again for all your help. It is appreciated.

 

[Sylvia Tunaskas]

Just a final update on the brake issue. Got the manual from Peterson's last night. What a nice thing to have! If anything needs to be done, it looks as if it is in there. I was also able to find long handled Allen wrenches (5/16) from a place called Carpenter Creek Inc. in GA. One was regular and the other was a "stubby". I tried to find them locally, but people looked at me like I was crazy asking for them. They shipped USPS, first class, and I got them in two days. Apparently someone replaced the cross piece end bolts with Hex head ones. The stubby should fit to hold the head and not hit the sliding rods on each side of the adjustment cable. The longer end Allen wrench could not hold the bolt solid to turn the nut to tighten it. We are going up today to put it to bed, and adjust it according to the newly recived manual's instructions. Thanks again for all your help in getting me on my way.