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1982 BR 100 engine swap what would you put

9

928mr2

New member
I'm redoing completely my newly bought 1982 BR100. I know more hp's and torque would'nt be too much. My 1.6 liter Ford has a cylinder with 50 psi compression lower than the others.
I'm thinking of an engine swap but i'm a bit afraid of all the works it needs to fit it in with engine mounts, drive shaft, electricals, exhaust etc.
I don't think it will be less expensive to swap than to fix the original one cause i'll probably have to work a lot on the one i'll find as a replacement.
The main thing here is that i'll use the machine to go to winter house once in a while (5 miles ride) and probably to plow my driveway.
I would like to have suggestions of which engine I could put in and what were the modifications necessary to fit it in.
Or if you heard of someone who put a specific engine and maybe photos would be welcome.
I heard an Isuzu 1.8 diesel is almost perfect but it looks like hard to find on the used market.
I would like to stay with an engine the same weight than the original Ford 1.6l.
Thank's in advance for any help.
 
i used one a few years go that had an automatic and 2.3 swapped into it it ran right nice also a 2.8 v-6 looks loke it would fit nice a turbo 1.9 vw diesel might be a cool swap also they can be built to about 135 hp
 
dds said:
i used one a few years go that had an automatic and 2.3 swapped into it it ran right nice also a 2.8 v-6 looks loke it would fit nice a turbo 1.9 vw diesel might be a cool swap also they can be built to about 135 hp
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Is'nt the 1.9 vw from a front wheel drive car ?
I think we can't fit a fwd engine in a BR100.
I heard a diesel is perfect for these machines but what about starting when very cold?
 
the 1.9 was used in fwd cars also audi made a 5 cylender with an extra hole but 1.9's are common you would have have to have an addapter plate made for it from some one like kennedy engineering and also make up a hybred clutch i a had one in a audi 4000 and it started just fine with good glow pluggs. there are also some small diesels mde by isuzu you could look at but like duitz and mb diesells they are expensive and heavy
 
dds said:
the 1.9 was used in fwd cars also audi made a 5 cylender with an extra hole but 1.9's are common you would have have to have an addapter plate made for it from some one like kennedy engineering and also make up a hybred clutch i a had one in a audi 4000 and it started just fine with good glow pluggs. there are also some small diesels mde by isuzu you could look at but like duitz and mb diesells they are expensive and heavy
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Like I said I don't want to gain weight (it sound like my girlfriend) :yum:
Thank's for the info
 
for ease of instalation the best power to weight will come from an eec-4 2.8 efi used in early 90's baby rangers or mazda pick ups copuled to a manual trans or a little c-3 automatic there are a bunch of older carbed models out there an they are what i see most of if you want a larger project stick in a diesel the early 1.9's need ahead gasket upgrade to hold up to 20 psi of boost so if you want good hp than plan on a rebuild the newer 1.9 tdi's are verry responsive an durable but also require a computer if you can find one the little isusu engine for the chevy luv wern't monster horse power engines but it would be less complicated to swap in engine and transmission an these engines were known to be real reliable these also would be older now and may require a rebuild
 
dds said:
for ease of instalation the best power to weight will come from an eec-4 2.8 efi used in early 90's baby rangers or mazda pick ups copuled to a manual trans or a little c-3 automatic there are a bunch of older carbed models out there an they are what i see most of if you want a larger project stick in a diesel the early 1.9's need ahead gasket upgrade to hold up to 20 psi of boost so if you want good hp than plan on a rebuild the newer 1.9 tdi's are verry responsive an durable but also require a computer if you can find one the little isusu engine for the chevy luv wern't monster horse power engines but it would be less complicated to swap in engine and transmission an these engines were known to be real reliable these also would be older now and may require a rebuild
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Forgive my ignorance but what's a eec-4 ?
 
eec -4 electronic engine controls 4th generation it is the last fuel injection package used before on board data 2 systems used now you can find eec 4 from about 1987 to 1994
 
Anybody heard of a 22R with auto tranny from a 1996 4X2 Toyota pick-up?
I already heard of a 20R in a Bombi.
 
I have one in my mini motor home. They are a very reliable engine and trans. It is not overpowered but moves 6,000 lbs. down the highway OK. The power band is a little higher in the rpm range than some other motors.
 
muleman said:
I have one in my mini motor home. They are a very reliable engine and trans. It is not overpowered but moves 6,000 lbs. down the highway OK. The power band is a little higher in the rpm range than some other motors.
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I knew about the reliability cause I already had two pick-ups with these engines.
I'll chek in a couple of days if it could fit in easily. There are many things to think about beside the size of the engine. I would be very glad to get an auto tranny, EFI and more hp's but if it needs too much engineering I'll go back to the carbed 1.6 with manual tranny :ermm:
 
that transmission made my short list. as a ACME adapter is available to mate it to a VW 1.6L Turbo diesel. ( I have a VW fetish)

22R motors are great motors.

I got caught up in motor swaps and wound up back at 240 mercedes Diesel engine with a 4spd Auto.
 
How is it to start your diesel in coldest Wisconsin days? What size is your engine?
Here in coldest winter days we get around -25 f.
 
the 240 mercedes is a 2.4L. I have only experienced (started)this motor to the twenties as I have not owned it long. (bought it late winter) no issues.

WI winters see sub zero weather days on end with -30 being a max low. we begin to complain at 0 and realistically see -10--20 occassionally.

A diesel engine needs to be in tune. Good injectors, fuel delivery in time and avg or better compression. our fuel is blended by the distributor after NOV.

My 16 year old daughters two choices of transportation for school is the Bus or a 1.6L diesel VW. She has learned to listen to her dad and not follow the owners manual. we don't plug that car in until it is zero or below. You don't fly out of the chute in that weather, but it always starts.

I am preparing the Bombi with a Electric block heater for when it comes to the shop. I will also have a Propane or diesel fired block heater when it needs to sit out at the lake for the month of february.

Other tricks I have used.
return fuel to a seventh injector and Single Glow plug to make a intake runner heater on a Nissan SD-33T. while cranking return fuel sprays a mist and it is ignited by the extra glow plug. (WD-40, JB-80 works as well)
Propane torch in the intake while cranking. (this one is not for evverybody) non turbo 6.9L Ford.
Long heater hose extensions from the shop truck. Plug the heater hoses from the truck into a loop on the equipment. (enjoy vice of your choice while waiting) after 15-20min any diesel will fire when pre heated from the inside.



I like all motors each has its strong suit, play to that.
 
We currently install on almost every one of are units a Espar Heater they work really well, and have not had any issues yet, they also come with a programmable timer too. Nice and small not much to install either. A little bit better than a block heater especially in the bush. I don't know why those current bushes don't work???:yum: LOL.. Not only do they warm up the engine they heat up the hydraulic tank also.
 
Finally I bought a 1996 Ranger with a EFI 2.3liter. It is in good condition.
It should fit but I worry a bit about some details like: How will I fit my Hydraulic pump from a V-belt to a flat belt? and will I be able to move the oil filter if it is too hard to remove? I hope it won't be too hard to put the exhaust to the left side of the BR.

I bought the ranger with a manual tranny. I prefered the reliability before the ease of use.
 
when you do the swap keep the engine wiring harness and computer to transplant the hyd pump can be overcom by welding on a v belt pully on to the water pump or crank shaft pulley wored great some 15 years ago with my cummins and is still working
 
dds said:
when you do the swap keep the engine wiring harness and computer to transplant the hyd pump can be overcom by welding on a v belt pully on to the water pump or crank shaft pulley wored great some 15 years ago with my cummins and is still working
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Thank's, I tought of welding the pulley and yes I'll keep everything I can including the computer, complete harness and the cluster with gauges.
I'm still worrying about the size of the engine vs the available space, the engine and tranny mounts etc. etc.

Thank's a lot for the advices
 
a buddy of mine has a br 100 with a carbed 2.3 and an automatic from a pinto the engine fits nice we just need to get around to tuning it up so it can steer in high gear
 
What do you mean by : we just need to get around to tuning it up so it can steer in high gear ? :unsure:

Another worry I have will be to fit the hydraulic clutch of the Ranger to the cable driven of teh BR.
 
some one cobbled it togethe i need to do some carb work on it and look into a shift modulator some reason or another you have to manualy shift it and it lacks the power to steer in high gear trust me that motor if it's running right should have plenty of power to steer in high gear. as it is now he has to shift down to second to steer, the engine just isn' running right with yours being fuel injected you won't have a bumb carb to deal with ive been moose hunting sorry for the late reply
 
dds said:
some one cobbled it togethe i need to do some carb work on it and look into a shift modulator some reason or another you have to manualy shift it and it lacks the power to steer in high gear trust me that motor if it's running right should have plenty of power to steer in high gear. as it is now he has to shift down to second to steer, the engine just isn' running right with yours being fuel injected you won't have a bumb carb to deal with ive been moose hunting sorry for the late reply
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Thank's a lot for these details. That's one of the main reasons why I wanted a swap. I don't want to deal with carbs anymore.
 
I PUT A 2.5 FROM A FORD RANGER WITH THE P/U 5 SPEED. LITTLE TIGHT BUT PLENTY OF POWER. FUEL INJECTION IS AWSOME. ALSO PUT A 22R MOTOR IN A 1402 THIOKOL.
 
the older carb's were quite reliable the newer stuff with emissions add on's were quite troublesom you have made a good choice to go to obd1 efi good preformance and reliablity
 
dds said:
the older carb's were quite reliable the newer stuff with emissions add on's were quite troublesom you have made a good choice to go to obd1 efi good preformance and reliablity
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Thank's you're making me less anxious!! I just finished to take everything out from the Ranger and it was a lot of work. The wire harness is impressive (lol)
 
you should also take the exhaust pipee back down to the o2 sensor than build the new system off of that you will need thew o2 sensor for the engine to run right but you won't need he catylitic converter
 
dds said:
you should also take the exhaust pipee back down to the o2 sensor than build the new system off of that you will need thew o2 sensor for the engine to run right but you won't need he catylitic converter
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Darn I did'nt keep them, I've cut the wires!!!
I should have kept them but not necessarily mount them on the exhaust line is'nt it?
If that's it I could find them used. They were impossible to take off anyway.
 
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