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1301 clutch assembly...help please

F

F.A.A.C. Slim

Member
Got the clutch out of BALTO....1962 1301 Spryte w/ Ford 170 6 cylinder...and can't find a replacement. Disk is 8 3/8" OD, 10 spline, max OD of spline is 0.95". Thought I could get a assembly from NAPA but they can't find one. Tried '71 Ford Maverick and Mercury Comet but no luck.

Anyone know where to get clutch assembly and throw out bearing?

thanks
 
F.A.A.C. Slim said:
Got the clutch out of BALTO....1962 1301 Spryte w/ Ford 170 6 cylinder...and can't find a replacement. Disk is 8 3/8" OD, 10 spline, max OD of spline is 0.95". Thought I could get a assembly from NAPA but they can't find one. Tried '71 Ford Maverick and Mercury Comet but no luck.

Anyone know where to get clutch assembly and throw out bearing?

thanks
Click to expand...

Have them send it in and have it relined we do that all the time with the hard to find ones
 
find a local clutch rebuilder they can rebuild your disc and also get you a new pressure plate also don't forget to have the fly wheel reground
 
Can't find anyone here in Condorado who wants to reline the clutch...Nick at Petersons says they have one @ $225 and I'll probably splurge for that. Don, thanks for the reminder to pull and machine the flywheel. The dimension of the recessed sidewall on the flywheel is probably also critical so I guess if they machine 0.010 off the flywheel they need to take 0.010 off the outer rim too. thanks
 
Slim,

Balto is worth a splurge now and then. Keep the old dog happy...and come to Levenworth this Jan.:whistling::biggrin:


Regards, Kirk
 
Slim I have had quite a few Clutch discs remanufactured with ceramic pucks when I was truck pulling and mountain crawling IH scouts back in the day. Ten or so years ago Clutch service wholesale was in CO Springs. roger might be retired by now But I bet his son is still in it. I will see if I can find that card and call the number, I even installed one in their parking lot..... Great people.
Mike

Did a google search they are not only still there they are in the same building. If Roger French is still working there tell him to retire. Send him your old disc, pressure plate and flywheel. You will be very happy.

I am not quite that fancy, I just had my disc built with three ceramic pucks and then added springs to the pressure plate the ceramic took care of the flywheel. I had some real torquey Binders back then. Rogers clutches just moved the torque further down the line, It usually escaped somewhere. (broken driveshaft, ring pinion, ARB carrier, Even broke a crank once..... never the clutch)

http://www.clutchservicewholesale.com/?PageData=111950
719 598 9188
 
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redsqwrl said:
Slim I have had quite a few Clutch discs remanufactured with ceramic pucks when I was truck pulling and mountain crawling IH scouts back in the day. Ten or so years ago Clutch service wholesale was in CO Springs. roger might be retired by now But I bet his son is still in it. I will see if I can find that card and call the number, I even installed one in their parking lot..... Great people.
Mike

Did a google search they are not only still there they are in the same building. If Roger French is still working there tell him to retire. Send him your old disc, pressure plate and flywheel. You will be very happy.

I am not quite that fancy, I just had my disc built with three ceramic pucks and then added springs to the pressure plate the ceramic took care of the flywheel. I had some real torquey Binders back then. Rogers clutches just moved the torque further down the line, It usually escaped somewhere. (broken driveshaft, ring pinion, ARB carrier, Even broke a crank once..... never the clutch)

http://www.clutchservicewholesale.com/?PageData=111950
719 598 9188
Click to expand...


Nice work finding that. Is your cousin grysqwrl?
 
F.A.A.C. Slim said:
Can't find anyone here in Condorado who wants to reline the clutch...Nick at Petersons says they have one @ $225 and I'll probably splurge for that. Don, thanks for the reminder to pull and machine the flywheel. The dimension of the recessed sidewall on the flywheel is probably also critical so I guess if they machine 0.010 off the flywheel they need to take 0.010 off the outer rim too. thanks
Click to expand...
yes you re right the distance from the fly wheel face to the throw out bearing is alsso critical especialy with a hydraulic clutch and there are shims made if ou have to shim up the fly wheel to put it in the proper position there would have to be a lot removed if that was necessary.the clutch i like the best is kevlar on the fly wheel and ceramc on the presssure plate side if using ceramic you cannot slip the clutch much as it will take metal off the friction serfaces driven right they will last a lifetime .
 
I ended up sending the flywheel,disk,pressure plate etc. to Roger French in Colo Springs. He was unable to re-build the disk and ended up finding a new clutch somewhere in Wisconsin. Once he recvd those parts, he re-machined the flywheel to match. Roger says he's sending the assembly back to me today:clap:and I hope to have it installed and BALTO running really soon. Thanks for all the input / support/ guidance
 
I hope you told him to retire 8-) for me.

He was a great help to me glad to here he is still at it.
YOu will not be disapointed.
Mike
 
BALTO is almost back to running around the hills.....and the hills have some snow!!!!!....thought I'd share the tale....first I want to introduce and thank Dan, ingenious inventer / mechanic who lets me use his yard to store & work on the machine...
 

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I had disconnected the drive train back in March when I blew the clutch....so I had to remove starter, disconnect emergency brake cable, disconnect clutch slave cylinder and linkage, remove clutch housing, and pull the flywheel. The last pic is looking down into the motor compartment. This 1301 was originally amphibious so the motor and drive train are enclosed and it sure makes repairs a whole lot of fun when you can't get to anything from below!!!
 

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With the clutch and flywheel I got back from Roger, the re-install was a piece of cake.....
 

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So now I need to re-install the e-brake cable, steering master cylinders..(I had to get NAPA rebuild kit for one of them), re-mount the battery and run new cables..(previously the battery sat on a rack just above the clutch housing but since I had to cut it out to get to the clutch I decided to re-locate to behind passenger seat)...re-install the seat etc.
 

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Irongoat...I'm thinking maybe so. I plan to haul BALTO up to Sandpoint ID anyway with a stop at SLC right after the new year. I have not confirmed for the Jamboree yet....hope to make it
 
Hey all, I see this cat has pulley grooves on the back of the E-brake clutch housing. Where can I find these for mine? Looks like a good spot for a hydraulic pump.. ?
Any help, ideas???
Thanks!
 

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Yes I also believe the pulley assembly was for a hydraulic pump. When I bought the machine the owner had no info on if it was ever used. I do not know where / how to get one.....good luck
cheers
 
Hey I dug in the digital archives and found 2 more photos that may help. cheers
 

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just a guess I think it is there for a diff fluid cooling pump any hydraulics for plows and such you would want to run off the crank so you could control it with the clutch released
 
Wondering if there is a bearing on the outside of the shaft in the collar before the splines? Mine seems to have a lot of play and I'm worried it may cause a vibration.. I'm assuming the clutch disc isn't the only thing that holds the forward end of the shaft. I only found one bearing in the case that bolts to the bellhousing. Any thoughts? I have about a 1/4" on each side of the shaft in the collar it comes out of.
Thanks guys.
 

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there should be a pilot bering in the end of the crank for the small end of your splined shaft to float in with out it you are going have a lot of chatter
 
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