Snow Master/Trac Exhaust sytem

I have found some very cool pictures of a modification someone has made to the Exhaust sytem on a Snow Master. I find it very interesting how they routed the exhaust sytem to come out about half way down the tracks in between the top and bottom of the tracks. I think I will follow suit. Check out the photos.

www.123.is/album/display.aspx?fn=snowtrac&aid=-3588182

Check out pictures #40, 43, 56, and 61.

Also note the Metzler tire in the big wheel. Can anyone make out what model those are?

This is the original 'Factory' location for the exhaust on all but the last machines built. What happens is that it leaves a big black spot on the tracks and when your parked with the engine running exhaust tends to migrate up into the cab thru the wing window. Northwest Tell came up with the 'up the back' system and it was employed on the last machines built. This tends to work better. It needs to go on the Hinge side of the door so that people don't try to use it as a handel.

Mike, as Lyndon points out, the original factory exhaust exits the sides of the machine on most models. Below is page out of a 1975 Snow Trac Parts Manual that shows the exhaust parts. If you put your machine up on a lift you can typically find the factory attachement points that were welded to the frame where the tailpipe clamps attach. The final clamp location will be about 2/3rds of the way back on the machine's frame (on the passenger side).

You can look at the serial number of your machine, and compare it to the serial numbers on the graphic below to figure out which parts you need to get your exhaust back to original. (This graphic covers machines 1975 and earlier)

Thanks for the info guys.

Re:More- Snow Master/Trac Exhaust sytem

As one of the weaknesses of the Snow Trac/Master line of Snow Cats revolves around the VW engine overheating, it is a good idea to get as much of the exhaust system OUT of the engine compartment as possible. The extra 5 foot of exhaust pipe in the engine compartment generates alot of heat and can be eliminated by droping the exhaust pipe out immediately after it exits the muffler. To do this one needs to turn (3) 90's in tight succession. One to get around the support member which is directly under the exhaust port from the muffler, one to get thru the skid pan that requires punching a hole in the skid pan, and one to head the pipe back to the rear of the vehicle. One inch rigid threaded pipe fits the exhaust port well enough to accomodate a VW exhaust clamp at the muffler. From the 90's on 1 3/8 exhaust pipe will fit over the 1 inch Rigid so no adapter is needed and all the remaining bends can be done with a regular exhaust bending machine.

Getting this section OUT of the engine compartment has another benifit. The "factory" routing of the exhaust pipe ran directly under the small chain sprocket on the Variator. This tends to cook the seal. Variator Seals at this location cannot be replaced with the variator in the vehicle, it has to come out. Removing the variator requires removing the engine and lots of linkages to the Variator. It's a big job! It's best to just run the exhaust straight out the front or bottom.

Having the pipe exposed under the Snow Trac does not turn out to be a clearence issue. Even in very deep unpacked snow it usually does not leave a mark on the snow. I've retro-fitted some dozen machines this way. At first we fabricated the (3) 90's from exhaust tubing and welded them. Later we started using the 'off the shelf' plumbing fittings. Once we got the pipe out of the engine compartment we had an exhaust shop do the long pipe down the length of the underside and up the back. Generally the exhaust shop chaged just over 100$.

Villi from Iceland posted some photos of his exhaust system for me, my intent is to do this to my Snow Trac.

Here is his thread: http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=1928&page=2

Here are the links to the images he posted:
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/attachment.php?attachmentid=2369&stc=1&d=1138135884

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/attachment.php?attachmentid=2370&stc=1&d=1138135884

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/attachment.php?attachmentid=2371&stc=1&d=1138135884

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/attachment.php?attachmentid=2372&stc=1&d=1138136244

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/attachment.php?attachmentid=2373&stc=1&d=1138136244

Well I guess I will go under the Snow Master with my exhaust. I have a tube bending machine so I can fabricate my own. I dont like any more heat in the engine compartment for sure. Thank you Lyndon for the heads up on the heat issue and the Variator. That would really suck since I will be running LONG distances. Bob I remember Villis photos. Thanks for posting them here. It will help me find them later as well.

Re: More- Snow Master/Trac Exhaust sytem

Lyndon said:

As one of the weaknesses of the Snow Trac/Master line of Snow Cats revolves around the VW engine overheating, it is a good idea to get as much of the exhaust system OUT of the engine compartment as possible. The extra 5 foot of exhaust pipe in the engine compartment generates alot of heat and can be eliminated by droping the exhaust pipe out immediately after it exits the muffler. To do this one needs to turn (3) 90's in tight succession. One to get around the support member which is directly under the exhaust port from the muffler, one to get thru the skid pan that requires punching a hole in the skid pan, and one to head the pipe back to the rear of the vehicle. One inch rigid threaded pipe fits the exhaust port well enough to accomodate a VW exhaust clamp at the muffler. From the 90's on 1 3/8 exhaust pipe will fit over the 1 inch Rigid so no adapter is needed and all the remaining bends can be done with a regular exhaust bending machine.

Having the pipe exposed under the Snow Trac does not turn out to be a clearence issue. Even in very deep unpacked snow it usually does not leave a mark on the snow. I've retro-fitted some dozen machines this way. At first we fabricated the (3) 90's from exhaust tubing and welded them. Later we started using the 'off the shelf' plumbing fittings. Once we got the pipe out of the engine compartment we had an exhaust shop do the long pipe down the length of the underside and up the back. Generally the exhaust shop chaged just over 100$.

Click to expand...

Pics of Lyndon's exhaust system on the FBI rig:

Thanks MNTNTOPPR, I took those top three pics when I was at Lyndons last year. I have always been told exhaust pipes under snowcats was a bad idea. BUT I guess it trully depends on the snowcat. The Snow Masters just flaot on top of the deepest powder where as alot of others drag there bellys in even light snow conditions. In those cases they are alot more likley to hit rocks and old tree stumps and damage there exhaust systems resulting in leaks into the cab area. Thanks for posting the pics.

Ok as I get closer to paint I have been getting other items located for purchase. I found a few companies that have stainless steel exhaust tubeing and components. Here is a link to there web sites. This should be handy for people who are getting ready to rebuild there exhaust system. I prefer Stainless steel since it seems to last forever compared to regular exhaust pipeing.

http://stainlesssteelmufflers.com/index.html ASK FOR R.J.