1200C WT Engine Trans swap

I have a 1200c WT that I am planning a engine and trans swap. I have a rebuilt ford 300 and c-6 with ebrake, but also have a cummins reman 4bt with an allison 545 with ebrake. I have not committed to either and have also considered the 3.3 cummins (its lighter and fits better), I am also interesed in a trans with an overdrive...........

just wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations on what other engine/ trans combos they think would be good

in the end i want a fast cat that runs well at 8,000+ feet, automatic trans (overdrive would be best) with ebrake. Turbo should solve the altitude issues. May need to re gear for speed and add a low range if necessary.

The 4bt would be great for fuel economy and has the turbo, but runs at a lower rmp and will slow me down.

I changed over my LMC1200 from the Ford 170 cubic inch engine manual shift (rear end clark unit) to a Ford 200 cubic inch with a C4 transmission. We took the manual cab gear shift mechanism out (for the clark rear end) and added a drive line brake rotor to replace the hand brake that was on the original set up. We use the original hydraulic clutch master cylinder set up as the foot brake for the driveline rotor brake (salvaged from a Dodge Caravan). The system works pretty good with the Clark rear end in the 3rd gear position and then the C4 automatic used as a normal driving transmission. If we have any really heavy stuff we can manual shift the clark down to 2nd or 1st gear...invoves climbing in ana out of the cab but that is rare. We use the unit to groom at our ski area and the 3rd gear clark and 4th gear clark are the predominant positions used. At some point in time I'm going to a larger rotor than the one salvaged from a Dodge Caravan for the drive line rotor. This rotor heats up pretty readily and has cracked- but still works.

The dmc 1200 that I pickup in march has a b-3.3 cummins in it and it fills the engine compartment , the turbo just fits. It looks to be a good motor for this cat. I drove it a little bit at @8300 feet elevation and it seemed to have plenty of power and torqe to move this machine around. the cat that it is in is a full cab with 36 inch tracks with a 10 foot plow on the front. The nice thing about the b3.3 motor is no electronics it is a mechanical fuel pump, (less stuff to fail ? )I hope this helps you some.

can you post some pics of your 1200 with the 3.3? Also what trans are you running?

Here are a few to start with I have a ford c6 tranny in it. Don't know what the stall speed of the torque converter is , when you put it in gear the cat is moving , don't really like that much. So it you do this conversion you will have to research torque converter some. Still work to be done in the engine compartment. But it is a very nice fit , I think!

Here are sum more . Can you send me some pictures of your engine cover and how it is attached on the top at the center hinge?

here is a pic of the piece that attaches the cover.

Post some pics of the full cat...that color looks familiar...Timberkat Green.

Thanks for the picture . The one I have looks like that on both end but sure is a bitch to get on and off . I will have to work on it a little to make it easier to get on and off. Hope the pictures helped not many wires to connect on this change out.

Hello I have a 73 1200 spryte that I am changing from 200 ford and standard trans to A 300 ford six and c6 trans . I was wanting to put an E brake on the drive shaft somehow and I was wundering how you did yours. As I cant use the one the standard used .Because their is no place to bolt it to.

some c6 trans are setup for the e-brake on the tail shaft.

motor homes were known for drive shaft mounted brakes along with medium duty trucks wrecking yards with those is where I would search

We did a similar swap except we just put a C3 in behind our existing 200 cu inch ford. Because of space requirements we ended up setting up a disc brake on our drive line. We used a caliper and front disc brake assembly from an 85 Dodge Caravan we had sitting in our boneyard. We used the original hydraulic clutch master cyl and pedal for the brake. The brake syastem works fine except the disc is too light duty for the load/heat generated in braking. Typically the rotor cracks but the brake continues to work for our purpose. When we get a chance we are going to look into a heavier duty set up or mounting a pair of rotors on the drive line. Since you are mounting the C6 and from the pic it looks like you have the brake assembly that is similar to the one in my Packmaster2100 I'd encourage you to figure out a way to use it. The Packmaster brake is mechanical but it holds up very well.

I have a 1984 300 Ford / C6 trans combo in my B12 bombardier. Can this be used on mine ?? Sounds like a mechanical setup would reduce problems like a line breaking & making a mess....

OT.

Dont know anything about B12's but I'd suspect if you've got room and can do a littlke fab work the 2100 brake should work.

This may be a silly question as I have not got my 1200 running so I can drive it .But my question is .Why is your brake heating up and cracking . I thought it was just used for emergency brake.

The rotor is overheating and cracking because it is being used as a service brake not an emergency brake. Upon examining it furthure we found that the original guy that installed it did a poor job of lining his fabricated bracket up. The result is that the brake pads are only contacting about a 1/2 inch wide band and this makes the overheating even worse. We plan to fix it this summer by redesigning a bracket for mounting the caliper to give us better alignment of the caliper on the rotor. We may also look at a larger caliper rotor set up.