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Snow Master Restoration ~ by Snowcat Operations

Snowcat Operations

Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
I have been finding out that I am in need of some rear deck snow guards. In powder my tracks tend throw powder up and back forward from the back of the tracks. This powder build up gets very thick! today on a rescue mission to recover my neighbors Excusion :D I drove about 5 miles in 12" plus of freshly fallen snow. I must of had 12" on my track decks when I got to his vehicle. I have seen some type of guards on other Snow Masters (see pics) Does anyone else have these? I believe when my vehicle goes to the metal shop I am going to have them build me a set.

(Pics not of my Snow Master)
 

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Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

??
 

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Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Villi,
My tracks stick out about 12" past the back of the machine. The tracks then are free to fling the snow farward from the back onto my track deck. Thanks for the pictures. They gave me another idea!
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Mike, it seems to me you could farily easily fabricate new sheet metal to duplicate the factory snow guards. Here is a photo from an Aktiv brochure.
 

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Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Snowcat Operations said:
Villi,
My tracks stick out about 12" past the back of the machine. The tracks then are free to fling the snow farward from the back onto my track deck. Thanks for the pictures. They gave me another idea!
Click to expand...


Mouse Ear ,
Since you will probably be broke down on the side of the road in that old Snot Trac anyway ,I would not worry about it !!!:moon: . Given about August it should melt off the tracks on its own anyway !!!heehee
Good Morning :tiphat:

Big Al:coolshade
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Well Big ALLLLL I must say my Snow Master has seen some pretty deep snow. Has yours? I didnt think so. :yum:

:coolshade :beer: :coolshade
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Thanks Bob. I am actually on my way over to the metal fabriction shop to give them some ides on what I want on the rear. I have decided to extend my rear deck and put new railing around the decks. I will extend the railing further forward and on the rear will have grab handles as part of the railing for easier access when in deep snow off the back. Ive also decided to add two tanks with a capacity of 20 gallons up to 34 combined.
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Snowcat Operations said:
Well Big ALLLLL I must say my Snow Master has seen some pretty deep snow. Has yours? I didnt think so. :yum:

:coolshade :beer: :coolshade
Click to expand...



OWWWWW !!!!! That was a cheap shot ! I kinda wish i had thought of that first ....

Oh well ! My Kristi has more parts than yours and they are scattered all over my shop floor , SO THERE !!!

Hmmmm....?? maybe that did'nt come out right ...
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

LOL. That was a cheap shot. Sorry. Now whats this about parts scattered every where? Thats ok mine is next on the shop floor this summer. You just got a head start!
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

I returned later today from the Metal fab shop and they will be starting my trailer real soon. (I changed a bunch of things AGAIN so it really was my fault but will be detailed in an article when she is finished!) I also talked to them today about working on my Snow Master. I will be having my decks lengthened to overhang the rear of the tracks. This will give me much more cargo room plus some much needed grab handles for when I'm in the snow to my waist as I have found out. I will also have a front and rear hitch built for my moveable Warn 9K winch (54 lbs.) The side rails will be completely torn out and brand new ones will go in there place. They will be taller and will go much farther forward. I will have tie down point all over as well. I will also be having a new roof rack made which will tie into the side rail supports. A new rear deck for cleaning off you feet (stomping) which will not extend past the tracks. and finally a nice coating of Rino liner to finish off the roof and decks. I am having them look at extending my cabin hieght after my wife said it needed a bit more room for the noggen. This I am not to sure on yet.:beer:
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

All the Track Masters & Snow Master tended to do this. There is a 'fix', that is a Factory 'Fix'. The first machines that I saw with rear fenders and mud flaps were made for NATO and do not resemble the British Military machine. Machines prior to a certain year did not have rear windows except in the door. After they added the rear 2 quarter panel windows this became a problem, mostly on the wide track machines. They resemble the 45 degree angle flaps as seen on the groomer model. This item appeard to never have been listed in any parts manuals. They were pressed or more correctly bent out of sheet aluminum and attached to the rear fenders. The Factory photos actually first show this accessory on a 3 belt (Big Wheel) Snow Trac, not on a Trac Master or Snow Master, the 4 and 5 belt machines. LYNDON.
 
Re: In need of rear deck snow guards

Thanks Lyndon,
I plan on building extended fenders out the back. I will also install a short rubber flap to help reduce the danger of backing into someone and pulling them into the beef jerky cutter. That would be a very horrible way to go!
 
Pulled the engine today

Well I finally had the time and almost the right weather to yank my engine out of my Snow Master today! With one hand not quite up to par I was able to get the engine out in about 3 hours (basically 1-1/2 hands). This also included 2 hours trying everyway to get to the drivers side lower bolt and actually remove it. I could feel it no problem just couldnt get anything to it to loosen it up! Figured out a way to do it with out yanking the entire exhaust system off (heater boxes). But next time I will remove all exhaust and heater boxes first. BUT all was good. I pulled the motor up and out from the top. I have come to realize that it would be much easier to remove the motor from the bottom. BUT I did learn alot and the next one should be out in a hour or so. I will post some pictures Tuesday sometime. I am still amazed at how light these motors are. Next will be the removal of the variators and then the transmission. I will also be rebuilding this motor to a more potent and much better engine. This will be going into my next up and coming Snow Master rebuild. Should be a fun rebuild. Its a good motor but I have a special need for a better more powerful and highly balanced engine. I will discuss that later on as that engine rebuild progresses. For now I still have to finish this complete frame off restoration (with many many improvements). Should be a blast! Pictures Tuesday.

:beer:​
 
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Re: Pulled the engine today

Snowcat Operations said:
I will also be rebuilding this motor to a more potent and much better engine.
:beer:
Click to expand...

Have you considered putting in the Subaru boxer engine? It fits. There is an adapter plate to mount it to the existing transmission. And you'd get the benefit of a water cooled engine and a REAL heater.

:weneedpic
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

I have checked all of the possible swap combinations there are within reason. (Kennedy engineering) While there are some that are really nice and have more power ect ect I have come to realize that an aircooled engine is probrably the best and most reliable for my needs. First they are as simple and as easy to work on as you can get. Pound for pound they are hard to beat for power. The "stock" transaxle can only take so much power. They are easy to upgrade to a more HP configuration and still keep the stock reliability (and keep your transaxle safe). They have less moving parts and just less parts in general. This makes it more reliable. BigAl has an idea to create a water jacket around part of the exhaust system which would give you a nice heater as well. The old buses used an auxilary oil cooler with a fan for a heater in the rear of some buses. I will try this to see how it works. BUT I have rarely needed more heat than what was comming in anyway and it gets pretty damn cold here. No I think I will stay with the VW engines and just boost them to 100 hp. The transaxle can take that and still live a LONG life. I will be checking out converting a type IV / Porsche 914 motor for use in the Snow Tracs. Those were pretty beefy from the factory and had depending on size 80 hp. For now at least I am happy with the aircooled.
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

Pictures
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Re: Lower Engine bolts:

The 2 lower engine bolts are actually studs, Metric, and would have a 17MM nut on a VW, but Snow Trac used a 15MM. they are so hard to get at that almost everyone cuts a 1/2 slot, from one skid pan support to the other so that it can be accessed from the bottom. Just did this conversion to Earl's rig. You shouldn't have to remove the heater boxes. In your specific case it would be necessary to remove the extractor exhaust.
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

Hello Lyndon. Hows Alaska? Thanks for the info. The two lower fasteners were 17mm. Actauly three were 17mm and the top right (drivers side) was a 15mm. Next time I will do the same. The bottom left wasnt to bad. Next is the remaval of the variators and transmission (see your PM box). Any suggestions before I dig in? I will be pressure washing everything first though. Its completely covered in grease and oil. Rear main seal was leaking and I over did the greasing my first time around. Live and learn.
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

Alaska is Great! It's about 30 Deg. ducks are out everywhere, some light snow. Spring is just around the corner. No bugs yet! when you go to pull your transaxel/variator make sure you don't loose any of the specialty hardware which consists of some machined spacers at or near the bell housing, and the special flat rectangular nuts that are on the long bolts going back to the 2nd frame member. these are double nutted and the nut on the other end of the rod, the variator end near the sprockets, is braised or welded on. If you crank on it with out backing off the double nuts at the other end it usually breaks the weld/braising. they should be 13/16 and require a thin wall socket.
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

Every nut and bolt gets Tagged and bagged as I go. I am a littler nervous about pulling it apart the first time around. After that all will be good. Who rebuilds your transaxles?
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

Thanks. I will keep track of everything. :thumb:




Lyndon said:
Alaska is Great! It's about 30 Deg. ducks are out everywhere, some light snow. Spring is just around the corner. No bugs yet! when you go to pull your transaxel/variator make sure you don't loose any of the specialty hardware which consists of some machined spacers at or near the bell housing, and the special flat rectangular nuts that are on the long bolts going back to the 2nd frame member. these are double nutted and the nut on the other end of the rod, the variator end near the sprockets, is braised or welded on. If you crank on it with out backing off the double nuts at the other end it usually breaks the weld/braising. they should be 13/16 and require a thin wall socket.
Click to expand...
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

Gary Zink, a great old german that really knows VW transaxels. Most people go thru Ovals Motorsports in Federal Way WA, ask for Fred. Mr. Zink has reworked several Variators at this point. 2 for me and several for associates of mine. If you get ahold of the local VW hippie shop in your area they will probably have a similar connection that is "closer to home" for your area. I found that it's cheaper and easier to just have the Experts deal with it than try and tackel it myself. they have special jigs and tooling as well as knowlege that is hard to come by for the One Time mechanic.
 
Re: Pulled the engine today

LYNDON,
I talked to your man Gary Zink today (great guy). His prices are great and shipping is only $18.00 more to ship to him FED EX Ground compared to shipping to Ca. Plus he will check out the variators! Thats more than I can ask for. Thank you. If anyone needs transaxle and or Variator work PM me for Gary Zinks phone number.
 
Painting my Snow Master

Does anyone know what type of seal was used to seal all of the cab joints? Roof and body sections are seperate and I want to replace them before I paint. Any ideas. Thanks.
 
Re: Painting my Snow Master

I can't tell you what is SUPPOSED to be there, but I can tell you that I found silicone caulk in SOME of the joints.
 
Re: Painting my Snow Master

I'm not sure what I found. What ever it was its now all dried up and brittle. Looks like a goup of some sort from that factory that was layed down before assembly. Of course 30 years later it hasnt faired very well.
 
Re: Painting my Snow Master

Over the years technology has changed. I sure wouldn't use an old style caulk if there was a better alternative! SILICONE doesn't dry out & is water tight in seams.

Of course, BigAl probably used some of his nose buggers as caulk when he put that plastic clamshell KT7 back together :yum:
 
Re: Painting my Snow Master

Don't use silicone . It will not accept a paint cover . I have Body sealant here so don't worry about it . It is the same stuff they use at the factory on cars and trucks when assembled .
 
Re: Painting my Snow Master

Al, that is a good point about the silicone not accepting paint. But on many of the seams on a Snow Trac the metal is folded over to cover the silicone line. There are some roof seams that would have exposed silicone, and for those seams your solution of using body sealant would be a better choice.
 
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