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Villi's Snow Trac Tools
- Thread starter villi
- Start date
Re: Snow-Trac from Iceland
Villi, did you make that tool? Is it used for changing the bogey wheels? Or is it something to do with adjusting the tracks?
In your LAST photo you show the ORIGINAL tools. One looks like a crank to start the engine. What are the other pieces?
Villi, did you make that tool? Is it used for changing the bogey wheels? Or is it something to do with adjusting the tracks?
In your LAST photo you show the ORIGINAL tools. One looks like a crank to start the engine. What are the other pieces?
Thanks Villi!
gordon robertson
New member
villi what a smart design , i like how it locks into the track to keep it from twisting or slipping out.... thanks for sharing your idea / plans...
gordon robertson 2/7/06
gordon robertson 2/7/06
villi said:I am sorry ! I have not the measurements of the tool yet , I have to drive 22 km.to the station but I promise
Villi, thanks!
I just started to make up 2 of your tools even before you get me the measurements. But the measurements would come in handy for the next step.
I picked up some 3/4" solid rod and cut a couple lengths of it for the section that fits into the track. For the vertical section I realized that a couple pieces of angle iron would work great so I cut two pieces of 2"x3" angle iron to about 6" lengths. The angle iron is easily wide enough to prevent the tool from slipping or rotating while it is lifting the bogie wheel. I welded the angle iron onto the rod, set a wooden pallet on fire
while working and figured I needed to take a break. Fortunately the fire was not much larger in size than a smoldering cigarette so it was quick to extinguish.One thing I don't have is the right steel for the lever arm, I'll have to go scavange some bar stock before I can proceed any farther.
Bob another use for these tools will be to help grease your zerk fittings. I find that half of mine are always hidden behind the wheel bracket. You could lift up the tire, spin and then zerk the now exposed fitting.
villi
Member
Hi Bob
I dont have the measurements yet ,but tonight or tomorrow. For the lever arm
you can use a lever arm from an old hey raker or machine !!!
One thing I don't have is the right steel for the lever arm, I'll have to go scavange some bar stock before I can proceed any farther.[/QUOTE]
I dont have the measurements yet ,but tonight or tomorrow. For the lever arm
you can use a lever arm from an old hey raker or machine !!!
One thing I don't have is the right steel for the lever arm, I'll have to go scavange some bar stock before I can proceed any farther.[/QUOTE]
Well I just came in from the shop where I finished up making 2 "Villi Tools" for changing bogey wheels. One is for me, the other is for Mike/Snowcat Ops as he and I are doing some horse-trading on various parts so this is part of the deal.
My tool is a bit different than Villi's tool because I didn't have any pipe, so I used solid rod, angle iron and a nice piece of cold rolled steel for the lever arm. It works the same, looks similar.
I'll post photos later . . . after I stop bleeding
My tool is a bit different than Villi's tool because I didn't have any pipe, so I used solid rod, angle iron and a nice piece of cold rolled steel for the lever arm. It works the same, looks similar.
I'll post photos later . . . after I stop bleeding
Here is my version of the Villi Bogie Wheel Tool.
Villi used pipe, but I didn't have pipe laying around so I used what I had. The bottom is a solid steel rod, 3/4" diameter by about 10" long. To prevent the tool from slipping in between the grousers when lifting, I used 2 pieces of 2" x 3" angle iron that I welded to the rod. The also form the support for the lifting arm. I was VERY SURPRISED at how easy it was to lift bogey wheel using the tool. I'm not sure how long the lift arms are, but they offer more than enough leverage to do the job
Picture #1 - My tool shown in action.
Picture #2 - The 2 tools I made (one is for Mike/Snowtrac Operations)
Picture #3 - This is Mike's tool disassembled. As he has a Snow Master, I made the tool adjustable by drilling 2 holes in the lift arm just in case he needed a slighly different amount of reach, I also drilled 2 holes into the angle iron to offer 2 different lift heights just in case the Snow Master is slightly different than a Snow Trac. (if you have sharp eyes you can see that Mike's tool needs a stout hook on the end of the chain, I only had 1 and put it on mine, so he'll have to add that when he gets his tool)
On both tools I cut the notches with a vertical front side and an angled back side to prevent the hook from slipping out of place. I also rounded off the corner of the lever arm where it might come in contact with the rubber tire. Instead of welding the chain in place as Villi did, I chose to drill a hole in and attach the chain with a stainless steel screw/washer, it is just another way to allow for adjustments if Mike needs it on the Snow Master, but I just set mine so it would work and it should not need to be adjusted again.
THANK YOU VILLI, the measurements you provided really helped
Villi used pipe, but I didn't have pipe laying around so I used what I had. The bottom is a solid steel rod, 3/4" diameter by about 10" long. To prevent the tool from slipping in between the grousers when lifting, I used 2 pieces of 2" x 3" angle iron that I welded to the rod. The also form the support for the lifting arm. I was VERY SURPRISED at how easy it was to lift bogey wheel using the tool. I'm not sure how long the lift arms are, but they offer more than enough leverage to do the job
Picture #1 - My tool shown in action.
Picture #2 - The 2 tools I made (one is for Mike/Snowtrac Operations)
Picture #3 - This is Mike's tool disassembled. As he has a Snow Master, I made the tool adjustable by drilling 2 holes in the lift arm just in case he needed a slighly different amount of reach, I also drilled 2 holes into the angle iron to offer 2 different lift heights just in case the Snow Master is slightly different than a Snow Trac. (if you have sharp eyes you can see that Mike's tool needs a stout hook on the end of the chain, I only had 1 and put it on mine, so he'll have to add that when he gets his tool)
On both tools I cut the notches with a vertical front side and an angled back side to prevent the hook from slipping out of place. I also rounded off the corner of the lever arm where it might come in contact with the rubber tire. Instead of welding the chain in place as Villi did, I chose to drill a hole in and attach the chain with a stainless steel screw/washer, it is just another way to allow for adjustments if Mike needs it on the Snow Master, but I just set mine so it would work and it should not need to be adjusted again.
THANK YOU VILLI, the measurements you provided really helped
Attachments
I've started it!
Only tacked together becuse I want to check that I havent made any mistakes before I weld. So, reckon it'll work?
Bob, I put 5 holes in the main beam, reckon that'll be enough adjustment? They are aranged in the pattern like the 5 dots are on a dice.
Only tacked together becuse I want to check that I havent made any mistakes before I weld. So, reckon it'll work?
Bob, I put 5 holes in the main beam, reckon that'll be enough adjustment? They are aranged in the pattern like the 5 dots are on a dice.
Attachments
Looks good. Finish up the welds and it should only need the locking chain and some notches.
One thing that I can't really see in the photo, but the lower edge of the very end where the lifting is done needs to be rounded off or cut back a bit. Villi cut his back at an angle, I used a grinder and simply rounded the lower corner back a bit and made sure there were no sharp edges on the end. Either way will work, Villi's way is probably a bit better. But you don't want a sharp lower edge poking into rubber tire of the bogie wheel.
One thing that I can't really see in the photo, but the lower edge of the very end where the lifting is done needs to be rounded off or cut back a bit. Villi cut his back at an angle, I used a grinder and simply rounded the lower corner back a bit and made sure there were no sharp edges on the end. Either way will work, Villi's way is probably a bit better. But you don't want a sharp lower edge poking into rubber tire of the bogie wheel.
I don't recognise the double box end 90 degree wrench. The axel where it is being displayed is usually 15/16, the only other nuts this size that come to mind are the ones that hold the Variator/Transaxel in. I believe that the adjusting nuts for tensioning the variator are 1", not 15/16 and the 'throw' doesn't look long enough to use on the lower adjusting spring assembly. You might try quizzing Christer Morlind as to it's application. If he doesn't know ask Harry Dewent of BC Tell or Roary Corniel (retired, lives in Vancover BC) of NW Tell. There were a bunch of mechanics that worked for NW Tell, out of Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory that all worked for Roary Corneil that probably knew Snow Trac's better than the factory. That service center has since been closed down, but the guy's were not that old and Whitehorse is a small community that one might be able to track down one of the mechanics. The parking lot for NW Tell's service center, right off the Alaska Highway(ALCAN) was very likely the only place in the entire world where 200 Snow Trac's were parked together at one time. As this accounts for roughly a tenth of the total production of the machines and no other user in history purchased this many machines it's probably a "One and only time in history" event. Roary say's there were pictures." Whitehorse, Snow Trac Capital Of The World"
Lyndon, Villi thinks the odd tool with the double box end wrenches was made by a prior owner of a Snow Trac in Iceland. Villi also lives on a farm near the northern coast of Iceland and received the tool from the prior owner of the Snow Trac. Somewhere he wrote that he was not sure what the heck it was for!
Bob I too have one (see my picture #5 post middle tool). It was in the spare parts / tool holder under the seat. It looks factory to me since it is the same original paint job as the other factory tools. I am wondering if it does go to the variator?