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Bombardier suspension axle stub available

Radar4xfour

Radar4xfour

New member
I have one axle / suspension bit available. It fits Bombardier Skidozer SV series snow vehicles SV200, 250, 250S, 252 and 300. As I own a Bombi I won’t be needing this little gem. Reference item #29 on the attached parts schematic. Bombardier part# is 660-3016. The proceeds of the sale will go directly towards offsetting the cost of the Bombi differential rebuild in progress! $95.00 + a little for the ride.
 

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Hi, I have a 1980 Skidozer and would be interested in this part. You can contact me at docmaple@hotmail .com Thanks Jim
 
you got a pic of that diff case before you took it apart?

just curious on my part of what it looks like.


thx
 
Berg,

Not sure what pictures you need but these three show the differential out of the case and it assembled in the case. If you need a parts schematic let me know and I'll send you one.
 

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I’m not sure what the correct terminology of the differential would be. There is a planetary set on either end along with the gears in the interior of the differential that function similar to spider gears in an automotive application.
 

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Hi, so what exact oil did you end up putting in the diff after all was said and done with the new brakes etc. Did you use the cat stuff or what.

Don
 
Yes, Caterpillar TO-4 30 weight. It also comes in 10W and 50 weight as well as 0W-20 for all the arctic folks. I paid $16.75 /gallon. It took over 2 gallons to fill the case. I'm sure your local farm supply / deere / co-op dealer will have the same thing only in a different jug. The improvement with the new bands and correct oil is astounding and was well worth the effort and expense. Now I have a machine that is fun to drive and operate.

Radar
 
Thanks Radar4Xfour
The product they have here is called TDH Trans Hydraulic which I can get for $49.00 for a 20 liter pail. I know the Napa guy here and he has 39 pails in stock and wants to get rid of some so is selling it to me for a buck above cost.
I also have a call into Winnipeg's Westrans who can supply me with the brake material. But don't expect to hear back from him until after the weekend. So I'm going up to the lake this week end and will try to flush out as much 80-90 as possible and use some of the trans hydraulic to see if I can't get an improvement until I can do the complete job this spring.

Thanks Again great forum

PS My machine pulls to the left after I tightened the tracks. Should I loosen the Right side and if so how do you get the grease out?

Don
 
Alpine Man Don,

See the attached scan from the Bombi manual. It describes where to bleed the grease from the track adjusters. It's a typical grease zerk. The manual mentions a tool but all you need to do is use a socket and remove the zerk. If there is any tension on the track grease will come out. Reinstall the zerk and readjust per the manual page. If it is any value you can purchase the brake band material from board member Boggie. I purchased my material from him. It comes pre cut and punched with rivet so it's a no-brainer for installation. Tracked vehicles are his business so he will treat you right. Contact him at 218-828-7876 (Minnesota) or thru his web site at http://www.mn-outdoors.com/contact.html

Radar
 

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Thanks for all the help Radar, that manual page was nice. Where can I get a manual like that?

I just got back from the lake. I drained the oil ran it around with the diff. full of gas and drained again. Added the oil but can't say I gained enough to make me happy. Going to look into new shoes.

Thanks Again

Don
 
Hey Radar,
Great info on the Bombi difd and pictures. I also have a '79 Bombi and would like to check out my steering bands for wear and/or replacement. Does one have to lift the cab and remove the fuel tank to remove the diff. cover and see inside, check the conditions of the steering bands?

Interesting how they all seem to have similar issues of problems with the diff overheating, smelling, harder to steer when hot, etc. Mine has no diff. cooler pump. Can groom for about an hour or more before it gets intolerable with heat and poor steering. Mine drifts to the right excessively, too. Wish I could overcome that issue.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

Lou
 
I had my diff open last summer to check out the bearings and it is easy to get at just remove the gas tank and take the top plate off. My bombi was also pulling to the one side and it is either your brake band is tight on that side or your one track is tighter than the other.
On mine it was the one track was tighter than the other. The manual says to tighten them until the top of the track is straight and not so tight that it pushes in on the rear wheels hard enough to create a indent.
On mine the right track was to tight and it pulled to the left. I made the mistake of tightening it before I got the instructions and had indent on both rear tires. Next time out to the lake I'll remove both grease nipples and do them both again.

Don
 
Lou,

The cab does not need to be removed, just the front fiberglass nose. There are four latches on the inside of the nose that attach the nose to the tub, two latches per side. There are also several bolts or screws above the windshield on the outside that connect the nose to the cab of the machine. After these are removed lift up on the front of the nose and "roll" the nose open, the top will kind of pivot at the top of the cab where you removed the bolts / screws. You will need to unplug a few wires before the nose can be removed all the way. Oh, be sure you remove the fuel tank cap too or the nose won't come off. After the nose is removed the gas tank is next then the top of the differential, just like Alipine Man Don noted.

Radar
 
One more steering related question regarding Bombis... How tight should the steering adjustment bolt be made to be for the steering handles?? I usually tighten mine so that the steering arms just return to neutral position, forward, with maybe an inch or two of free play before they engage the brakes. I try to hold them forward so to avoid any drag.

I notice that one arm's adjusting bolt seem to back out or loosen regularly, needing tightening almost hourly, when I have little to no steering when pulled all the way back. There is quite a bit of oil coating the surface metal and bolt threads here too.

Yesterday, I tightened this right side arm substantially tighter than I would normally. Didn't seem to pull or drag any, but steering on that side was suddenly greatly improved. Before this, while grooming and the cab is warm (hot), if I let go of the steering arms, they would fall back toward me some 5-10", and reasonable steering requires pulling the arms all the way back as far as they go. Tough going!! I even considered placing springs or bungie cords on them to keep them all the way up, if I let go to use a hydraulic lever or the like. Any suggestions, anyone???

Thank you.
 
Lou,

Take a look at post #11 above and open up the attachment, it describes 3"-5" of slack on the steering levers. Also, you should have 2 nuts on each adjuster. The bottom one will be rounded as it pivots on the steering lever. The top nut is a jamb nut to keep the works from loosening. Another item to look at is to be sure the rear steering linkage pivot pins (tucked under the fuel tank) are in place. On my machine the rear pin on the passenger side fell out and was laying on top of the differential case! Needless to say the steering was lousy at best.

Radar
 
I'm trying to figure out how to get the lower brake bands out of the case without removing the diff. The threaded adjustment rods that attach to the lower bands have me totally hung up. I cant remove the pins that hold the bands to rods cause they hit the case. Am I missing something?
 
Agant172,

I did try removing my bands before removing the diff from the case but also had great difficulty. In the end I was not able to remove the lower bands without removing the differential. I got as far as removing the upper band from the pivots. After I had the band off I tried to remove the lower band cotter keys to slide the pins out but gave up after I found the damaged ring & pinion. I was able to push the threaded adjuster down thru the hole in the case but beyond that I could not rotte the rod to clear the differential to pull it out.

As long as you are in the housing take a close look at the ring and pinion for damage. In my situation the ring gear adjusters had loosened up allowing the differential case to slid left and right 1/4" plus. Every time power was increased or decreased the case would slam side to side into the pinion. My advise is to use a small pry bar to see if the case is loose. Any movement side to side in not acceptable.

Does that description seem to make sense and does it help?

Radar
 
Thanks for the awesome (and fast) reply! I checked ring/pinion and side play I think I'm good. I'm scared to think about pulling the diff. and trying to get it set back up correctly, my luck I'll end up where you started! Is it tuff to pull? I've got to replace the brake linings though there in the rivets, steering is getting difficult. The manual isn't much help on an R&R.
 

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Radar4xfour said:
I have one axle / suspension bit available. It fits Bombardier Skidozer SV series snow vehicles SV200, 250, 250S, 252 and 300. As I own a Bombi I won’t be needing this little gem. Reference item #29 on the attached parts schematic. Bombardier part# is 660-3016. The proceeds of the sale will go directly towards offsetting the cost of the Bombi differential rebuild in progress! $95.00 + a little for the ride.
Click to expand...
where did you get the parts for your differential rebuild
 
The rebuild parts came from Certified Power Inc. in Burnsville, MN their phone is 952-894-5700

You need to order Spicer / Dana part# 706017-9X which is the ring & pinion kit for your Bombi. It can be ordered thru any speed shop like Summit Racing or Jeggs. As far as the carrier bearings go you can pull these numbers from the bearings. They should be the same as the following Carquest part numbers:
LM501349 Qty. 2
LM501310 Qty. 2
HM88610 Qty. 1
HM88649 Qty. 1
M86610 Qty. 1
M86647 Qty. 1


Regards,

Radar
 
Hi Just a thought .
I change all the bushings in the diff when i pull it out If they haven't been done already
All the ones I pulled apart the axle gear bushings were worn . Its a peace of mind
there not expensive then you know every things done .Just make sure you time the gears when you put it together .
Good luck
And Have fun
 
Radar4xfour said:
I have one axle / suspension bit available. It fits Bombardier Skidozer SV series snow vehicles SV200, 250, 250S, 252 and 300. As I own a Bombi I won’t be needing this little gem. Reference item #29 on the attached parts schematic. Bombardier part# is 660-3016. The proceeds of the sale will go directly towards offsetting the cost of the Bombi differential rebuild in progress! $95.00 + a little for the ride.
Click to expand...

Who relined your steering brake bands for you?

Bill
 
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