SV 200 Project in Pictures

I'm going to try to post some pictures of my SV 200 project here if I can remember how to do that.

Looks like I got it to work!
First picture is right after delivery of the sad little SV 200. As you can tell by the picture, it's going to need lots of TLC. It just came off the trailer from Boggie's shop near Brainerd, Minnesota.

Second picture is showing the dash, which has some things missing that I haven't even checked out yet. That will come later.

Third picture shows what several in the forum have warned about: Bombardier must have had majority ownership in a body putty firm. I guess I'll need to apply some new stuff when I get to the cab.

Fourth picture shows the missing engine, but never fear, a later picture will show the rebuilt. The auto transmission is in a repair shop right now. I'll probably have to take out a loan to rescue it.

Last picture shows the missing wheel which is in the cab in picture one. Also visible are several flat tires. I've checked out Fleet Farm. Looks like a minimum of $45 per tire/tube for load range C. Maybe I'll try to salvage a few of the old tires and just put in new tubes? I'm also having trouble finding a replacement for the "smoothies" from Goodyear that go in front: they say 4.50 X 12 NHS 8 ply nylon on their sidewalls. Not sure if I should use a treaded tire there or not.

Where are you located Snowbird??? Looks like a great project!! Mike

Here's another set of SV 200 pictures: (reply to mbsieg: I'm in southern Minnesota. Hope we get snow this winter!)

Picture one shows the tracks. I wonder if forum members would suggest I spray some rust-preventative primer and then enamel paint on the metal on this side of the tracks? I power-washed them and could probably hit them briefly with a wire brush, then paint. Also please advise on whether I should replace what I guess I'd call the "flap" that's the extra 24 inch or so piece of belting that helped hold the track joint together: it looks sort of rotten.

Picture two shows a somewhat creative solution to a replacement door handle. I wonder if that's supposed to be the same as a Model A Ford door handle?

The third picture illustrates one of the reasons I'm glad I kept one of my farm tractors: it has a super-dooper loader for lifting things like cabs.

Picture four is a shot of the rebuilt Ford 250 engine. Hope to have it bolted to transmission by later next week.

Fifth picture shows the odd-ball front wheel. I'm wondering if I shouldn't try to replace it with one that will unbolt from a hub instead of having to remove the bearing? Do you suppose this is some of antique original that someone would like to trade a regular steel rim for?

Last picture shows the project sitting in my shop ready for some more stuff I got done on it today.

If everyone in the forum isn't sick of these pictures yet, I've got a couple more:

I think the first pictures shows that I'm probably missing a sheet metal panel that's supposed to go in this opening in the back of the cab.

The second picture shows how I was able to sandblast the chassis while it was suspended from my loader. I just have a home-made blaster so I didn't try to get bare metal all around - - - just knocked off loose rust and maybe some caked-on dirt.

Picture three shows the chassis in the shop minus the "fenders". They were rusted through in spots and wavy, so I've got a metal shop shearing and bending some new ones I'll weld on hopefully some time next week. I sort of guessed at the guage to use: I got talked into 10 guage while I sort of wanted to save a few bucks and use 11 or 12 guage. That might be somewhat heavier than original, but when my granddaughters jump up and down on them, they should hold.

The final picture for this series illustrates the chassis in primer. I plan to spray it black tomorrow. If you look closely you might see a probable problem: fluid is leaking out of the seal on the rear axle. Is that a terribly nasty thing to fix?

I Grew up in Luverne MN Thcri is from SE MN...

Probably not much snow in Luverne last few winters, either. Maybe this winter will make up for previous ones.

No one here gets sick of pictures! We love pictures! You asked about painting the track cleets/grousers. I wouldn't get too overly excited about painting those unless you plan on redoing them every year. I haven't seen a cat yet that's been able to hold paint on those. Heck, when we take delivery of a new snowcat, the cleets/grousers are already rusted on them.

Looks like you've got a big job ahead of you getting that cat ready for the snow. I'm sure it'll look great once its done.

You have a great project on going. Looks to me you will have a real nice snow cat when completed. I am sure if anything goes wrong it will not take you long to trouble shoot and repair it in the future.

As to the front tires it is critical to have good tires in that position. You might ask Boggie about his solid rubber tires for the front. It is next to impossible to have an easy fix on the front if you have a problem. You do not want to have to take a track off to fix a flat. Go with solid or foam fill a regular tire for the fronts....

Snowbird, you have been busy! wow You can go with the sawtooth pattern tire from fleet in the front also just get it filled. on the pulley send me a Email
I'm sure we have one. your pictures are great!

I've made some progress. Here are some more pictures:
The first picture shows the chassis to date. The original "fenders" over the tracks were pretty flimsy and rusted out so I replaced them with some 10 guage sheet metal. It looks like it's about ready for the engine and transmission.

The second picture illustrates an axle tube. I'm working on the sprocket hub bearings and seals. One seal was leaking and I checked the bearings also. They're a little pitted, but a new set costs a whopping $500 or so. I think I"ll try to keep lots of grease on the old ones.

Picture three shows one of the "fun" aspects of restoring older machines. This is the adjusting bolt and nut that Bomardier used to tighten the tracks (along with a greased tube). I've heated it to cherry red, applied penetrating oil and put a two foot extension (a pipe) on the handle of my biggest crescent wrench. Still can't get it freed up. I'll have to resort to plan B.

Just included picture 4 to show some prior owner's modification of a parking brake apparently (they installed a disc brake assembly). Not a bad idea if I can get the mechansim loosened.

A prior operator must have hit a stump or a big rock since the front sheet metal was really dented in. I cut it out and replaced it. I decided not to weld it in place, but rather make it removeable so I could more easily get at the front of the engine if I needed to work on it.

The last picture shows the sprocket hub that takes those unusual-size expensive bearings. Pretty hefty construction, but pricey to fix.

Use Kroil on that nut and bolt. I used penetrating lubes of every make on the market and I couldnt get this one bearing out. I then hit it with Kroil a couple of times and the bearing pop out with almost no force. I have used it on everything on one project from that point on and everything just simply moved. Amazing stuff!

Your project is moving along!

I don't know if you noticed ,but you have a really bad dent in your trash can ....
Also why are you making me look so bad on my KT7 restore . A project like this should take at least two years to rebuild . Looks like you will be up and running in weeks . I hate you .......
PS: Damn nice job

BigAl said:

I don't know if you noticed ,but you have a really bad dent in your trash can ...

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Allen, you probably didn't know it, but fixing that trash can is going to be snowbird's next project. He and I have been discussing it and based on the preliminaries it will have multiple coats of Ford King Ranch lacquer paint on the exterior, custom colored matched epoxy bedliner material on the inside, and 14K gold handles. Oh, and just like your KT7, it won't move under its own power

B_Skurka said:

Allen, you probably didn't know it, but fixing that trash can is going to be snowbird's next project. He and I have been discussing it and based on the preliminaries it will have multiple coats of Ford King Ranch lacquer paint on the exterior, custom colored matched epoxy bedliner material on the inside, and 14K gold handles. Oh, and just like your KT7, it won't move under its own power

Click to expand...

Your a Ass !LOL

BigAl said:

Your a Ass !LOL

Click to expand...

I don't even try. It just comes naturally to me

Actually BOB I if a wind comes up I bet that trash can will actually roll unlike BigAls Kristi.

Snowcat Operations said:

Use Kroil on that nut and bolt. I used penetrating lubes of every make on the market and I couldnt get this one bearing out. I then hit it with Kroil a couple of times and the bearing pop out with almost no force. I have used it on everything on one project from that point on and everything just simply moved. Amazing stuff!

Your project is moving along!

Click to expand...

Or just cut it off and buy a new nut.

I think BigAl and BSkurka could be successful stand-up comics. I enjoy reading your playful banter and I'll be more careful next time when I take a picture that my weird shop stuff (including dented garbage cans, tools lying on the floor, extension cords strung all over the place .... sorry no empty beer cans) doesn't show up in the picture. Looking at the fine workmanship evident in pictures of other projects, I think the reason I'm steaming along is that my standards aren't as high. Many of the forum projects look professional.
Thanks to dansvan for the hint on that problem nut and threaded rod. I, too, had about decided to cut off the nut (lots of room here for BigAl comments) and replace it.
I'm hoping to bolt the engine and transmission into place by the end of this weekend and to sandblast the cab. I decided to rent the air compressor and blaster unit since my blasting tip is about 1/16 to 1/8 inch diameter and my air compressor produces about 18 SCFM at 100 psi. The rental is 100 SCFM at 125 psi and the tip has a hole about 3/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter. I think I'll need to hold onto the hose with both hands.

Try Kroil first! I had just about given up on my problem and was going to start cutting but used Kroil and man what a diffrence!

Here are some more SV200 progress pictures:
Picture 1 is showing a possible problem: do I need to attempt lowering the automatic transmission mounting so that there is less angle for the driveshaft?

Picture 2 shows 3 of my 6 new tires.

Picture 3 illustrates what might be a situation unique to the SV200: the fan is mounted quite high on the engine I suppose to line up with the radiator, but that requires a special crankshaft pulley.

Picture 4 backs up the comments in the forum that Bomabardier must have had a part ownership of a bondo company.

Picture 5 though, shows that I could justify a new tool to aid my rotator cuff problems in my shoulders (it's a bugger getting old).

Picture 6 is a special tool "boggie" told me I'd have to create to work on the sprocket hub.

I would loose that mechanical fan and use an electric fan. Make sure its a pusher and mount it on thefront if the radiator. Try Summit racing for the fan. I would also upgrade your alternator for a higher output unit. This way you can get rid of the mechanical fan and have a cooler running engine when the new fan does kick on.

Thanks for the tips. I think I'll first try to see if I've been able to even get it going in the snow. I think I could make those changes later. I've been pretty busy in my shop lately. I'm attempting to again add some pictures. Here goes.....
1. Cab front. Got cab covered with 3 gallons of bondo and painted. You might notice my guess at what the cover for the defroster inlet looked like (I didn't have the old one).
2. This passenger side view shows that I've still got some work to do on the interior. I'm about ready to bolt in the seat and just got done pulling some wiring around for lights, etc. today. You probably also notice my dirty shop floor and dirty Bombardier floor. Anyone catching a dented garbage can in previous pictures is sure to find lots to laugh about in this series.
3. I've got the engine and transmission about ready to fly. I had to fabricate some linkage for the throttle and make some spacing adjustments on the water pump pulley. I've put a small after-market air cleaner on the carburetor since I couldn't find an original one.
4. I've got the driver's seat bolted in and I'm really anxious to get the tracks on and try kicking up some snow.
5. I'll probably have to find a little safer, more permanent solution to my gas tank problem. I don't think OSHA would approve of this setup. I've toyed with the idea of getting a plastic tank from a late model car from a salvage yard. I could only find 5 gallon cans at Fleet Farm. Original tank was full of rust, but held 20 gallons or so.
6. I have to admit to sitting in the driver's seat and imagining plowing through the snow. I've got to find a home for all those new wires hanging under the dash. I don't suppose they'll automatically attach themselves to the correct guage or switch.

Looks like you're gaining on it

Thanks for the pics.

Make yourself a wiring diagram .

Great Job so far! See Snocatops post on his superimp for a great idea on fuel tank/battery/tool stowage. I bet Bogggie can help with tips on the wiring.
You've come to the right place!

You really have come a long way on that one. good job.
now are you driving it ? how did your adjustment go on the steering bands ?


Happy New Year ...........

Now don't get a SCWI "snowcatting while intoxicated"

Great Job. How long and wide is this Bombardier? What year is it. It looks similiar in size to my Bombi. Did you have to replace any of the body steel in the tub?

79Bombi

Thanks Boggie: you know what I started with. I'm hoping to put the tracks on today. I backed off the tension on the steering brakes and the levers seem to make a 1/3 to 2/3 speed difference on the sprockets. I'll try it with it off my shop floor with tracks on before taking it outside (way minus windchill today).

79boggie: I don't have the specs in the house with me, but I know it's about 10 feet long and 85 or so inches wide.

Sorry, I didn't go back and check your spelling of your forum name. It's a 1971 Bombardier SV200. I'm a newbie at all things snowcat, but I think I've seen pictures of the Bombi's and they look much smaller.

Nice job! We replaced the fuel tank on our SV301 with a 15 or 20 gallon plastic boat fuel tank its a bit small for the machine but was a quick fix and it wont rust. We also added some metal supports from the axles to the top of the tub as the 10 gauge vert frame was built with the goal to be light but was not strong enough for the loads we were haulig.
I would post some pics but Comp USA erreased them from our computer.
Good work and happy new year!

Thanks for the reminder about marine fuel tanks as alternative. I got a 12 gallon tank today which I'll plan to strap to the bed right behind the cab (where the original tank was). I was too cheap to get the bigger tanks (parts person said they were considered "custom" tanks and ran in the $200 range). If I need more capacity I guess I could buy another 12 gallon tank.