• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Bombardier SW48 Restoration 2016

Bobcatbob

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Patron
I drove the Bombardier around today after topping off the trans fluid (noticeable leak)...and it runs like a champ. So....for about 5 minutes....I considered leaving it as is and running it until something lets go. But, knowing it's rusting out...and it deserves better....I started it's restoration.

http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_0516_zpsdazwuxdv.jpg


http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_0517_zpsyjnnnowl.jpg


http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/A3DE9156-823C-4685-89DF-D3D3EB3E9533_zpshsmj4s3f.jpg


http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/1EE2B00F-AF8A-4DB1-BC73-F3931107CC36_zpsxniytg30.jpg


http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/F00C4D12-54A3-43A7-9B98-4040E6021A82_zpsonbcz9ab.jpg




I removed the salt spreader and rear cover (needs a good deal of sheet metal work).....found the bolts holding the brackets completely rusted out (used a carbide blade on a Dremel ....worked like a charm to cut bolts off). Both radiators will need to be recored (fins flaking off)....but something I wasn't sure on : the tracks are rubbing on the frame...and have uniform gouges throughout. Possible these are the wrong tracks on the machine? A bogey adjustment that needs to be made?

I have the manual (received from Bombardier Museum in Canada)....I'll digitize and post for a "sticky" if there is no copywrite issues.

Having fun!

Bob
 
Nice project and great pics, keep them coming. The rubber bands ,I'm sure are the right ones, suspension wise all will be revealed when it's stripped down. Not sure if there is spring in the can on this one or rubber stops, it will be a nice insight into a Sw48 of mine that needs attention.
J5 Bombardier:hammer:
 
Bobcatbob said:
I drove the Bombardier around today after topping off the trans fluid (noticeable leak)...and it runs like a champ. So....for about 5 minutes....I considered leaving it as is and running it until something lets go. But, knowing it's rusting out...and it deserves better....I started it's

I removed the salt spreader and rear cover (needs a good deal of sheet metal work).....found the bolts holding the brackets completely rusted out (used a carbide blade on a Dremel ....worked like a charm to cut bolts off). Both radiators will need to be recored (fins flaking off)....but something I wasn't sure on : the tracks are rubbing on the frame...and have uniform gouges throughout. Possible these are the wrong tracks on the machine? A bogey adjustment that needs to be made?

The front rubber flexitor needs to be readjusted or replaced there is a splined arm with the axle on it for the front wheels it has a pinch bolt remove the tire then remove the arm from the splines reposition and tighten if it has become loose and ruined the splines it will need to be replaced also if the rubber has broke its bond it will need to be replaced
Click to expand...
 
Bobcatbob said:
Just started reading owners manual and Spare parts manual: not to be copied.
Click to expand...

Just a general suggestion here: I'm also a member of a forum for arborists (I cut a lot of firewood). The parts and service manuals for most chainsaws are copyrighted also, as I understand it.

There's a thread on there called "begging for manuals thread". Almost magically, when you post up your need/s, someone will ping you with a pm to send you a link to a pdf of the needed manual. Often, it's within just minutes, but it's a very popular site.

Perhaps something similar could be set up here for sharing snowcat literature?
 
I just emailed Andree Richer at the Bombardier museum....please contact him for any Bombardier manuals:

a.richer@fjab.qc.ca

They charge about $25 or so for a copied manual, very nice person.

If a moderator can place this in a "sticky" for Bombardier manuals, this would help those seeking info.
 
Thank you MnOutdoors (Bogey?) and J5. I'll follow up going forward as I take this old beauty apart, I'll need lots of parts (the radiator and transmission cooler 1st.....they are both shot).
 
Spent the day working on the SW48 (nicknamed Baby Beula now.....we have a 11 foot plow truck named Little Beula).

Stripped the engine, removed the radiators and radiator mounts, disconnected the propeller shaft, removed the engine and transmission mounting bolts....ready for lift! The car engine hoist I have didn't seem to center over the SW48 so well.......brought in my "rough terrain engine hoist" instead (my previous project of 3 1/2 years).

I've included a picture of a Dremel tool I use to remove rusty bolts (carbide blades). For anyone who's fought with frozen bolts over 1/4" (those snap off easily enough)......this thing cuts through a 1/2" bolt in about 1 minute.

Having fun!

http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_2023_zpsnrkbxgkp.jpg


http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_2026_zpsjvkyksgl.jpg


http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/zz295/DD453/IMG_1950_zpsajv9jx3w.jpg
 
Got the engine out over the weekend, removed transmission (sending in for rebuild). I was going to Hot pressure wash the engine.....but too damn cold!




 
Might need a new transmission coupling housing (picture of cracked mount)....found this when removing transmission. Any thoughts? Looks like a Bombardier part.







 
Hot pressure washed the engine and mounted on an engine stand. It runs well, but with all the rust and leaks, this is the best option to "refresh" this old beauty.





I picked up some square tube steel and diamond plate.....figured I'd build a seat base and add a "Hearst" type shifter with a cable vs. the prior direct connect linkage. It's mocked up for fit, but once welded and plates bolted on.....should work well.



Having fun!
 
Thank you Sno-Drifter......the crane was my last "project"....saved it from scrap yard, rebuilt to OEM (as close as I could get it with some upgrades). My wife keeps asking what I'll do with it......and after hoisting the engine, booming out 30 feet to hot pressure wash it outside......another use found!

I plan on doing a similar rebuild with the SW48.......would like to get it as close to new....adding upgrades where it makes sense (bucket seat with 5 point harness, LED work lights...360 degrees, etc.). It's the journey vs. the end result I enjoy.
 
It sure is.....and having a local transmission shop locate a replacement (they're rebuilding the C6 , asked them if they could help out within the mount). :biggrin:
 
Engine is painted, transmission rebuilt! Upon inspecting the engine, resealing and regasketing.....the only accessory that was "iffy" was the water pump. It's a Ford Industrial engine, so finding a 5/8" diameter vs. the 3/4" water pump (which is standard) was a bit of a hunt. I made a few calls....and the $$$$ for the industrial OEM pump was ridiculous (an OEM carb is over a grand....no kidding!). I found this one on a popular electronic commerce site (no....not tinder)....for a little over a $100! Any other pump would likely work, but I'm doing this restoration as close to original as possible.

Having Fun!






 
Keep up the good work. Watching this makes me want to rip my SW48 apart and do a ground up, but its still in use regularly. Maybe one summer.
Ryan.
 
Did you change out the timing gears while you had it apart? The fiber gears tend to break.
 
Thanks gents. The gears are cast steel as it's a Ford Industrial 300.....built like a tank (even the original gaskets were beefy....far thicker than the rebuild kits). I'm putting her back together, having fun!! The crane is a Galion 150A with a Detroit 453N.....an amazing two stroke diesel, sounds like none other. That was a fun build!

A few pics.....



 
Removed the tracks, sprockets and wheels........and for the love of god, those tracks are HEAVY! I found an inner taper bearing that had grenade, chewed the axle up.....had been rebuilt before by the prior owners: no back cup to hold the gasket in.....and they went with a cheap bearing vs. Timken. I tried using a puller....no go, it's seized.



While trying to figure out why the torsion bars "gave out", I noticed pieces of chain between the front axle and the back bogey assembly.....is this what's wrong? Broken chain? Any ideas on setting this/chain type (assume grade 80 or better)?



I was able to get the info for replacement bearings (Timken 2788 and 25581).....
Any idea on inner race numbers for those bearings? The bogey assembly in back was the definition of "Mud seal failure"....



Having fun!

Oh.....any ideas on part replacements for this stuff? I left a message with the gentlemen in MN (mnoutdoors)...hoping he can help.

Thank you

Bob
 
attachment.php
attachment.php

"Thanks gents. The gears are cast steel as it's a Ford Industrial 300.....built like a tank"
Here is a Ford 300 industrial with a fiber cam gear. A broken one. Hairline crack allowed it to rotate on the metal hub. Stopped running after that. Now it has a steel gear set.
 
Last edited:
In the parts manual for that engine they list both. I was actually quite surprised to find fiber gears in that engine.
 
Lifted the frame up this afternoon to hot pressure wash.....and ran into a problem. As I fired up the heater, started the pressure washer......nothing was coming out. The lines were charged....looked around.......and just as I walked by the heater......the relief valve opened. Scared the bageezus out of me! I had to let it sit, cool down, turned out the tip on the wand was clogged. Cleaned it out, good to go.





Having fun!
 
Great way to suspend a hull ! Keep the pics coming... the snow is toast.. tis the season now to rebuild .
J5 Bombardier:hammer:
 
I concur! Spring and Fall never come quick enough.

Oh, if you notice in the picture.....the steering handles are still in the frame. The pin holding it to the mount is completely rusted. Similar problem? I'm considering grinding them out as a "hot blue wrench" might burn off the mounts? Any experience with this J5?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top